Cloudy Water and Small Nitrite/Nitrate spike - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 30 Old 04-28-2013, 06:10 PM
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One last question. The tap water I have been using tested pretty high in gH and kH. I was wondering if this is okay water to keep using to do water changes?? I do have a spring in the country (I live in a country town) that I have been using in my other tank where the parameters are good, water is not quite as high in gH or kH.

My reasoning for using different water is that I started my first tank (the one I am having problems with) with the tap water and the second tank I used the spring water so I didn't want to add different water to the tanks. It is much easier to do these constant WC in the problem tank because I am using tap water.

Should I continue use with the tap water?
There was mention earlier in this thread about the GH in this tank. Are the numbers cited there accurate for GH and pH?

What fish are in this tank, just the dwarf gourami and the corys?

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #22 of 30 Old 04-28-2013, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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There was mention earlier in this thread about the GH in this tank. Are the numbers cited there accurate for GH and pH?

What fish are in this tank, just the dwarf gourami and the corys?
In the tank with the high gH, the only fish in there are the Dwarf Gourami and the three Cory. This is the tank I use tap water for water changes. I wasn't sure if the reading at gH and kH were okay for the four fish in there?
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post #23 of 30 Old 04-28-2013, 07:46 PM
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In the tank with the high gH, the only fish in there are the Dwarf Gourami and the three Cory. This is the tank I use tap water for water changes. I wasn't sure if the reading at gH and kH were okay for the four fish in there?
You're fine. The GH was given as 120ppm which is just under 7 dGH, soft to moderately hard. My wild caught corys which are far more sensitive are in 5 to 6 dGH.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #24 of 30 Old 04-28-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I just checked the water parameters after having lights off for over 48 hours and no feeding. They read as so:

pH: just above 7
gH: above 120 ppm
kH: between 120-180 ppm
NO2: 0 ppm
NO3: between 0-20 ppm (very little color change if at all)

I am happy to see the NO2(nitrite) went down. Even with that dropping, the water still has a cloudy look to it. This will clear I am assuming as you all have said.

Just updating the info on my tank. Tomorrow I will be buying plants to add so we'll see how that goes.
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post #25 of 30 Old 04-29-2013, 09:21 AM
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I use peat moss in the substrate to keep kh and gh in line.

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #26 of 30 Old 04-29-2013, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Trey740 View Post
I just checked the water parameters after having lights off for over 48 hours and no feeding. They read as so:

pH: just above 7
gH: above 120 ppm
kH: between 120-180 ppm
NO2: 0 ppm
NO3: between 0-20 ppm (very little color change if at all)

I am happy to see the NO2(nitrite) went down. Even with that dropping, the water still has a cloudy look to it. This will clear I am assuming as you all have said.

Just updating the info on my tank. Tomorrow I will be buying plants to add so we'll see how that goes.
Nothing wrong here, either as it stands or when compared to the previous readings.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #27 of 30 Old 05-07-2013, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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I just wanted to thank everyone. The cloudiness cleared, tank parameters are great, and the water is crystal clear.

I added water sprite and another plant that I can't recall, but for some reason they are a little brown? I am going to get some liquid fertilizer to put in the tank today so maybe that will help.

But the tank is really clear, my fish seem happy with the plants (mainly the Dwarf Gourami) and I am happy with the look of the tank.
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post #28 of 30 Old 05-07-2013, 11:54 AM
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Awesome! Follow the measurements on the bottle and try once a week to start. You can often see new leaves about a day or 2 after dosing so keep an eye out for them. You can also dose up to 2 x a week.

Glad things have settled down for you.

Every kid, regardless of what they are going through, is ONE caring adult away from being a success story. ~ Josh Shipp, Teen Behavior Expert
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post #29 of 30 Old 05-07-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Trey740 View Post
I just wanted to thank everyone. The cloudiness cleared, tank parameters are great, and the water is crystal clear.

I added water sprite and another plant that I can't recall, but for some reason they are a little brown? I am going to get some liquid fertilizer to put in the tank today so maybe that will help.

But the tank is really clear, my fish seem happy with the plants (mainly the Dwarf Gourami) and I am happy with the look of the tank.
Always good to hear of success.

On the liquid plant fertilizer, I recommend Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement or Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. Both are complete comprehensive supplement, with all essential nutrients in proportion. Once a week (and you dose very little of these) is usually sufficient.

Byron.
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Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #30 of 30 Old 05-07-2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Trey740 View Post
I just wanted to thank everyone. The cloudiness cleared, tank parameters are great, and the water is crystal clear.

I added water sprite and another plant that I can't recall, but for some reason they are a little brown? I am going to get some liquid fertilizer to put in the tank today so maybe that will help.

But the tank is really clear, my fish seem happy with the plants (mainly the Dwarf Gourami) and I am happy with the look of the tank.

awesome.

Glad it worked out.

a few brown leaves is just part of having live plants. Cut them back if you want just to make the tank look better.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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