Cloudy water - cycling tank - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-13-2010, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Cloudy water - cycling tank

How long can I expect the cloudy water from the bacterial bloom during cycling? Is there anything that will clear it up without hampering the process? I have a 30 gallon tank, its about 8 days old. Got real cloudy a couple days ago.
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-13-2010, 07:03 PM
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what are you water parameters right now?
are you going through a fishless or fish-in cycle?
what size tank do you have?

answer some of these questions and we can help you from there!

PS - WELCOME!!!!! there are alot of knowledgeable members on here!!

“The space between the tears we cry is the laughter that keeps us coming back for more...."-- Dave Matthews
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post #3 of 13 Old 04-13-2010, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the welcome I made a mistake that alot of new aquarium owners seem to make. I stocked my tank prior to the cycling process, only reading about the fishless cycling methods on this forum later. I've read alot of threads about newbies doing this same thing, and would simply like some advice free of the admonitions that come with the obvious mistake. I already know I messed up, how do I fix it?

My water is sitting at 7.2 ph, Ammonia levels are really beginning to spike, sitting at about .5 ppm prior to my water changes. I keep the water temp at 78 degrees F. What else is required as far as water parameters?

It is a 30 gallon aquarium, I am changing about 6 gallons of water every other day, as per the advice of another thread on this site. Anything else?
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post #4 of 13 Old 04-13-2010, 08:59 PM
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If the ammonia stays up, you might think of doing daily water changes, it will help reduce the ammonia and clear the water.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-14-2010, 12:48 AM
Welcome, and while we can't guarantee support that is admonition-free we can definitely help! Trust me, lots of us have made these mistakes at some time or other, and unfortunately usually it's with blessings from the lfs. When we're new, they are the ones we trust! Ugh!

Anyway, if your ammonia exceeds .25 ppm, def do a water change. Depending on how heavily stocked your tank is, you may have to do heftier water c hanges than 20%. If my ammonia got up to .5 you bet i'd be doing a 50% on the spot.

You might consider buy live bacteria (Tetra Safe Start is a refridgerated yellow bottle, pricey, but will speed up your cycle, which you want for the long term health of your fish and tank--may help you avoid other problems later if you cycle properly). Anyway, it could speed up your cycle significantly! Make sure you got enough air (like an hob filter or enough surface agitation) when you add the bb.

Hope this helps...sorry it's wordy!

Stephanie's updated tank profiles:
29 gallon 10 gallon
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post #6 of 13 Old 04-14-2010, 03:49 AM
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I might consider reducing the amount of food offered and the number of times fish are fed to half a dime size amount of food every other day. This can help keep ammonia levels more manageable along with water changes.
I might also consider using a water conditioner/dechlorinator such as PRIME or AMQUEL + they will also address ammonia along with chlorine and chloramines found in many water supplys. PRIME would be my choice and is used by many.
Would not disturb the filter or clean or replace media(pads,cartridges,sponges) for the next three weeks. Bacteria you are trying to develop will be found in large part in the filter and on the material therein and by not overfeeding,, the material should not need cleaning.
A good liquid test kit such as API Freshwater Master kit is a valuable tool and far more accurate than most strip style kits.
Am not a fan of "cycle in a bottle " products for those that don't work only add ammonia producing dead organics to the tank ,(opinions vary.)
A portion of filter material and or a stocking with a cup full of gravel from a friends tank could help speed the process. if this is option,keep the borrowed material wet in dechlorinated water or aquarium water and make the transfer as quickly as possible. Push the stocking of gravel into the substrate of your tank and or add the filter material to your filter and you should benefit in substantial way.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-14-2010, 04:27 AM
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Welcome to TFK!

I don't really have anything to add to the excellent advice already given. Keep us posted on the progress of the tank!

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post #8 of 13 Old 04-14-2010, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Sounds like I just need to increase the frequency and volume of my water changes. I'm already using a water conditioner, and maybe I need to think about the Tetra brand live bacteria? I have a bottle of the API brand live bacteria (stress zyme) but it doesn't require refrigeration.

Thanks again or everyone's advice!
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-14-2010, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Here are a few pics of the aquarium - taken today, note the super dense looking milky cloud in the water. The last picture is taken at the edge of the aquarium so you can tell by the wall past the tank that the camera does in fact take clear pictures, and the haziness is the water! Poor fish














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post #10 of 13 Old 04-14-2010, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMarion View Post
Thanks for the advice everyone. Sounds like I just need to increase the frequency and volume of my water changes. I'm already using a water conditioner, and maybe I need to think about the Tetra brand live bacteria? I have a bottle of the API brand live bacteria (stress zyme) but it doesn't require refrigeration.

Thanks again or everyone's advice!
Without live plants, I would definitely use a biological supplement in a new tank. I prefer Seachem's "Stability" which is 100% bacteria; I have used it and it works. The Tetra is also supposed to be good; I can't remember the details, but I believe they bought out the Bio...something stuff a year or so back, and it was rated an excellent biological supplement, one of Dr. Hovanec's discoveries I believe. Anyway, either of these are preferred.

API's StressZyme since you have it is better than nothing, but I would not get more of it, rather get one of the above mentioned. I am not myself comfortable with some of the additional claims StressZyme makes, but in a new tank to introduce the bacteria it won't hurt.

And welcome to Tropical Fish Keeping.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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