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cant figure out nitrite reading

This is a discussion on cant figure out nitrite reading within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by jake5757 morning everybody very exciting day here!!! did another 50 percent water change about half hour ago and retested after half ...

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cant figure out nitrite reading
Old 06-20-2012, 06:50 PM   #41
 
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Looks like the worst is over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jake5757 View Post
morning everybody very exciting day here!!! did another 50 percent water change about half hour ago and retested after half hour of mixing here is the new and improved nitrite level (so happy) almost retested to make sure. Primes coming tomorrow so ill add that once i get it.
Nitrite 0ppm
ammonia between 0 and .25
ph 7.8
Nitrate ( i knew it would be high with water change its 80ppm)
updated video of fish after change at
after water change #2 - YouTube

After looking through the thread and your post I am almost certain it was some kind of chemical that is altering the test. Therefore the water changes is diluting this chemical and slowly removing it. This is good.

You should have 0 ammonia. It should be yellow.

What is your Nitrate level out of the tap?

The Nitrate test is a very hard test to take. Are you following all directions. Please make sure you are shaking Regent #2 VIGOROUSLY for 2 minutes, even though it says 30 seconds. Try it and let us know what you get. Test both the tank and the tap this way.

What is the current water conditioner you are using? Prime is not necessary, but it will help.

Doing constant water changes like this should not raise your Nitrate level. Water changes are actually meant to lower Nitrate levels and it is one of the main reasons why we do water changes....just one of them.

I think that tomorrow you should do one more water change, just to assure you get that nice blue on the nitrite test. Also, you want to make sure you get a definite reading of 0ppm of ammonia. Once you see 0ppm of Ammonia and Nitrite you will be in the clear. Then you can revert to weekly water changes.

Regardless of the outcome, I would test the water at least once every day or two just to check up on things for at least a week.

You are doing good and it seems the tank is settling so from everything you are telling us I am thinking you should be out of the woods.

----

Also I want to say that Live Plants are the best thing for an aquarium. It keeps Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels in check. It also looks better. It is beneficial for your fish in every way possible. I would look into these if you don't already have live plants. I forgot if you do or not.

Last edited by Termato; 06-20-2012 at 06:52 PM.. Reason: Added Live Plants comment
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:20 PM   #42
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Termato View Post
After looking through the thread and your post I am almost certain it was some kind of chemical that is altering the test. Therefore the water changes is diluting this chemical and slowly removing it. This is good.

You should have 0 ammonia. It should be yellow.

What is your Nitrate level out of the tap?

The Nitrate test is a very hard test to take. Are you following all directions. Please make sure you are shaking Regent #2 VIGOROUSLY for 2 minutes, even though it says 30 seconds. Try it and let us know what you get. Test both the tank and the tap this way.

What is the current water conditioner you are using? Prime is not necessary, but it will help.

Doing constant water changes like this should not raise your Nitrate level. Water changes are actually meant to lower Nitrate levels and it is one of the main reasons why we do water changes....just one of them.

I think that tomorrow you should do one more water change, just to assure you get that nice blue on the nitrite test. Also, you want to make sure you get a definite reading of 0ppm of ammonia. Once you see 0ppm of Ammonia and Nitrite you will be in the clear. Then you can revert to weekly water changes.

Regardless of the outcome, I would test the water at least once every day or two just to check up on things for at least a week.

You are doing good and it seems the tank is settling so from everything you are telling us I am thinking you should be out of the woods.

----

Also I want to say that Live Plants are the best thing for an aquarium. It keeps Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels in check. It also looks better. It is beneficial for your fish in every way possible. I would look into these if you don't already have live plants. I forgot if you do or not.
Hey thanks for your help also. you guys r a life saver here much appreciated. So tested the works today and am pleased to announce 0 readings on both nitrite and ammonia!! my Nitrate is still 80 since water change and out of the tap it runs 80 also so like i said that is the cause of high nitrates i had it at around 10 untill the change. ph is holding at 7.8 also. my emergency 10 gallon is cycling nice ammonia is running about 4 to 5 right now. i added cycle to get things moving nicely also. Looking at setting up reef aquarium what is your thoughts on them?
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:28 PM   #43
 
Updates today include a new fluval Q1 air pump with 4 inch air stone, 2 huge bottles of prime, heres a new video of aquarium and new setup in action whats your feedback on this.
20120622 190218 - YouTube
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20120622_190134.jpg (73.9 KB, 18 views)

Last edited by jake5757; 06-22-2012 at 09:34 PM..
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:06 PM   #44
 
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Hey Jake,

I just wanted to give you some information on Quarantine Tanks, Prime and Plants.

The QT tank is best without substrate for many reasons. You can clean and keep watch of food and poop that way. It allows for a much cleaner quarantine environment. Plastic plants are always best in a QT Tank because medicines will harm some real plants. You want to provide cover with floating plastic plants and no substrate basically. That way the fish have hiding places and you can keep watch of everything. No sharp objects for flashing. You want a contained environment. That is what I have concluded through most of my research and experience with that.

With Prime, you want to dose on the water you are adding and not for the entire tank. It will last you much longer and Prime is a very strong product. In cases of emergencies as stated then you can use the directed doses. Prime is good, just careful not to overdo it because it is powerful.

Real Plants will do great in your big 60 gallon tank. Not only will you get an different array of greens, reds and other colors from the plants but it will make your water quality much better.

Things are looking good. Did you get any readings back when you did this water change?


On a stylistic note, have you ever thought about putting a black background on the tank. You could take a black roll of paper, black sheet, paint it black or some other method. It would make the colors pop out and make the fish feel less stressed. The darkness will give them a sense of security.

I'm always a fan of the natural look so adding any kind of rocks and driftwood to create hiding places and territorial breakers always brings things together.

Just something to think about.

Last edited by Termato; 06-22-2012 at 10:09 PM..
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:28 PM   #45
 
I think you are over reading the nitrate kit which is very easy to do. Or you are on a private well that is not fit to drink. I know both the US and UK limit nitrate in drinking water to a max of around 40ppm. My old well had 25ppm of nitrate according to actual lab tests. On the API kit the reading looked like anything between 20-40ppm.

It is easy to mess up tests by adding to many chemicals. IMO on a tank like yours the only thing you really need to add is just Prime or another simple dechlor(no stresscoat or slime coat crap). There is really no need for anything else in a non-planted tank.
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:14 AM   #46
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Termato View Post
Hey Jake,

I just wanted to give you some information on Quarantine Tanks, Prime and Plants.

The QT tank is best without substrate for many reasons. You can clean and keep watch of food and poop that way. It allows for a much cleaner quarantine environment. Plastic plants are always best in a QT Tank because medicines will harm some real plants. You want to provide cover with floating plastic plants and no substrate basically. That way the fish have hiding places and you can keep watch of everything. No sharp objects for flashing. You want a contained environment. That is what I have concluded through most of my research and experience with that.

With Prime, you want to dose on the water you are adding and not for the entire tank. It will last you much longer and Prime is a very strong product. In cases of emergencies as stated then you can use the directed doses. Prime is good, just careful not to overdo it because it is powerful.

Real Plants will do great in your big 60 gallon tank. Not only will you get an different array of greens, reds and other colors from the plants but it will make your water quality much better.

Things are looking good. Did you get any readings back when you did this water change?


On a stylistic note, have you ever thought about putting a black background on the tank. You could take a black roll of paper, black sheet, paint it black or some other method. It would make the colors pop out and make the fish feel less stressed. The darkness will give them a sense of security.

I'm always a fan of the natural look so adding any kind of rocks and driftwood to create hiding places and territorial breakers always brings things together.

Just something to think about.
Ok great info ill pull the gravel out of emergency tank and cycle without it. as for the other im really interested in live plants but afraid to mess with that tank now that its all leveling off. i may swap for real plants here in near future. I will definitely put black plastic or paper on back wall asap on both tanks.
My test results today were
PH 7.8
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 40ppm
And my emergency tank is cycling at 4ppm ammonia
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:16 AM   #47
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikaila31 View Post
I think you are over reading the nitrate kit which is very easy to do. Or you are on a private well that is not fit to drink. I know both the US and UK limit nitrate in drinking water to a max of around 40ppm. My old well had 25ppm of nitrate according to actual lab tests. On the API kit the reading looked like anything between 20-40ppm.

It is easy to mess up tests by adding to many chemicals. IMO on a tank like yours the only thing you really need to add is just Prime or another simple dechlor(no stresscoat or slime coat crap). There is really no need for anything else in a non-planted tank.
Yea i have a private well thats unfit for drinking on a farm so thats the cause of high nitrates. tank is leveling off today nitrates down to 40ppm now so its slowly getting there. As for chemicals thanks for your guys advise iv thrown all the old chemicals in a box and strictly gonna use prime at water changes and in emergency. Thanks for your help
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:36 AM   #48
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikaila31 View Post
I think you are over reading the nitrate kit which is very easy to do. Or you are on a private well that is not fit to drink. I know both the US and UK limit nitrate in drinking water to a max of around 40ppm. My old well had 25ppm of nitrate according to actual lab tests. On the API kit the reading looked like anything between 20-40ppm.

It is easy to mess up tests by adding to many chemicals. IMO on a tank like yours the only thing you really need to add is just Prime or another simple dechlor(no stresscoat or slime coat crap). There is really no need for anything else in a non-planted tank.
Yeah I finally got my tap water tested by a lab as well and it came back as 7.68ppm of N03-N and 33.8ppm of N03. The API Master test kit was reading in at 40ppm to 60ppm so I absolutely agree with Mika on this. Urgh on Nitrates!



On the addition of plants, you can always start out with low light plants and a few of them. Something like Anubias, Java Fern, Java Moss or Anarchis would work well in low light situations.

If you can find any of these you could get one or two and put it in the tank. Try it out and see what happens. Adding the plant will help with the bio load so it will help in every way possible. You will want to put the plants under the light, and now in dark areas of course.

One thing to keep in mind is that Algae likes nitrates, it will thrive in it. Adding plants will help reduce the Nitrate in your tank slowly over time. Plants will soak up Ammonia and Nitrates in the water as food. They use other nutrients as well but those are the most important because those can be harmful to your fish and the plant will consume it.

If you get Java Fern, don't bury the roots or the Rhizome stem. The Anubias you can bury the roots but don't bury the Rhizome.



That is the Rhizome, the leaves and roots come out of it.

Good luck and keep us updated on the tank.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #49
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake5757 View Post
Ok great info ill pull the gravel out of emergency tank and cycle without it. as for the other im really interested in live plants but afraid to mess with that tank now that its all leveling off. i may swap for real plants here in near future. I will definitely put black plastic or paper on back wall asap on both tanks.
My test results today were
PH 7.8
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 40ppm
And my emergency tank is cycling at 4ppm ammonia
Its great that with a bit of guidance on here things seem to be going in the right direction for you! I learned so much from coming here, its so invaluable to be able pick the brains of folks that have been doing this for a long time and have a fountain of knowledge to share.

Can I just add about the black background, I tried using black construction paper, more paper thank card really, and it looked ok but because it didn't form a seal between the glass and the background it showed up a lot of algae that was starting to gather at the back, and you could see light leaking between the paper and the glass too, in my opinion didn't look to great. You can buy those plastic poster backgrounds that are jet black, and if I was to go that route again I would buy one of those and use the cooking oil method of attaching the poster background, that way it will be much more black, as it will be sealed to the glass. I know others have suggested just using card, and this is fine but I think unless your gonna completely cover the back of the tank with bushy plants it'll look better if you use one of those glossy posters. Just an idea.

and the API test kit, although its pretty much the standard test kit most of us use, I have found it to be notoriously hard to read, and IMO its probably more of a warning system than a scientific analysis of water parameters. Differentiating between 0ppm and 0.25 ammonia is sometimes unbearably difficult, that in the end I just took it as 0ppm as there was no way I could always have 0.25ppm. its all dependant on background light etc. and the nitrate is also a guessing game. the three top results are RED, my tests always go that colour, but who knows what the actual level is???????? it goes red right outa my tap, so I'm guessing its around 40ppm but I really have no idea. At the end of the day, the tests alert you to a potential problem, and should be viewed as an alarm.

Do not fear plants, ok they may not be for everyone as they do sometimes need some love and attention but they look so much better than fake IMO, and as stated previously the benefits for the fish and water is a selling point in and of itself. Once you get going with plants, you may find that you fall in love like many of us have, and they can become just as fun and satisfying as keeping fish.
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