I am almost 100% certainly bet you that what ever chemicals your putting in there is having a weird results with the API test.
It was blue out of the bottle and as soon as it went into the test tube it started going purple and then red.
That Nitrite test will not do that normally.
I found this though online. I copied the most important parts...I thought. I put a link to it at the end of the quote.
Actually, that means your nitrites are off the charts. For the API nitrite test kits, if the liquid turns purple/red and then goes to light blue, it means it's off the charts. |
WTF? I don't mean to sound rude, but where in the world did you come up with that?
Step 4. Wait 5 minutes for the color to develop.
Step 5. Read the test results by matching...... and so on.
Until the reagents have had time to react, nothing you see has any meaning whatsoever.
The only color that means anything is the color after five minutes. Until that point the reagents have not reacted, which is what causes the color we use for measurement.
On the "Fresh and Saltwater Nitrite NO2 Color Card" (API, of course) that I have in my hand, light blue is 0ppm (mg/L).
That is exactly what API said themselves. I don't know if it was on this forum or not, but a member emailed the company about this (liquid turning red immediately and then light blue) and they said themselves that this means the nitrites are off the charts. I'd like to think they know what they're talking about.
The instance that Blue_Soda025 was referring to could be due to the fact that the person who had the problem was also dealing with green water, a major algae bloom. We didn't get the full story here.
The nitrite reagent contains hydrochloric acid. It is well within the realm of possibility that when the acid contacted the algae and of course killed it instantly, this caused a color change because the acid was reacting with organic materials.
Here is a thread about this issue: Aquaria Central Forum Thread
That is what I found though...and the link they give as reference doesn't work. Is your Kit Expired? Does it have a date on it? Did it when you bought it? If you can't get a 0ppm reading of Nitrite from Tap or Bottled water, then I would really look into this.
Above you stated you did all that, but it didn't say you tested for Nitrite. This leads me to believe it is the stuff you put in there. Can you do me a favor and take a test sample from your tap water and test that with the Nitrite test.
This will serve as a control group and see if it is the test or your water. If you get weird results, try bottled water.
Let me know what you get.
Also, I agree with rhymon78 on this one. Get Prime water conditioner. It will neutralize all harmful metals and Nitrogen based chemicals in the water. This will assure the safety of the fish.
Another point of concern: Ammonia 0.25
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...#ixzz1yB7StMlY
You should not be reading ammonia in a cycled tank. Your water change will be essential right now.
I would test the water for Ammonia and Nitrite (once u get the nitrite solution fixed) every other day until you get 0ppm on both. My guess is that when you added the fish, you added too many at once.
This shocked the system and caused a mini cycle. I have had this happen. Just keep watch of the tank and its parameters.