black stuff growing in tank - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 02:08 AM
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What wattage of light do you have? I mean obviously having the lights on 24/7 created this problem but if you have high wattage lights then it could be a problem as well. This looks a bit like black hairy algae and you say it's hard to get off so sounds like it as well. I've been battling this stuff for months now, the only way is to start co2 injections. That helps keep it under control, it's also incredibly hard to find fish that will eat the stuff. What size is the tank? I've heard american flag fish will munch on it but I've never seen them in my lfs so I can't say for sure if it's true.

And just before you laid dead weight upon its shores, I stung you in the face for that's the nature of my core.
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post #12 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 09:33 AM
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CO2 is said to help battle/prevent this brush algae, but that is expensive and then you have different water parameters and other issues. Unless CO2 is required for the plants, I wuldn't go down that road. A better option is to dose the tank with Seachem's Excel a couple of times. Several members have commented that this got rid of brush algae, and on their website Seachem comment that it is not a guaranteed algae remover (whihc suggests it does do it). Excel is a liquid carbon supplement intended for tanks without CO2 that need some extra carbon for plants, but it does not have the same effect on water parameters (relating to pH and hardness, carbonate and general) so it is a better (and less expensive) quick-fix solution.

Once its gone, the best way to keep it away is regular maintainance (weekly partial water changes reduce nitrates that algae feds on) and keeping the bioload balanced (no excess food or nutrients). Some brush algae is common in most aquaria, I have it in mine on the wood which is OK with me; I just make sure it doesn't start increasing on the live plants. It can be kept in check usually in a well maintained tank.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #13 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 10:08 AM
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I agree with everything Byron has stated. Dosing with Excel & changing my lighting schedule cleared up the problem for me. I now also keep Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis). They DO eat brush algae but due to their adult size they are not recommended for smaller tanks.
As little-fizz stated knowing wattage is also important.

If you don't stand up for something you'll fall for anything...
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post #14 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cousinles View Post
The plants are plastic, fluorescent lights are on 24/7.

How would you feel if there was no night time? constant day...

you effectively torchered poor fishes.. you tank was something like Guantanamo bay.


I will hold your fish hostage! Unless you pay me one billion dollars.

Last edited by Unrulyevil; 08-11-2009 at 11:53 AM.
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post #15 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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I have a 15 watt light and a 35 gallon tank. The light has been on 24/7 for two years straight and the fish did not die until I changed the water. When I changed the water I emptied the whole tank and added two more fish from Wal-Mart and read later not to do that (drain hole tank or buy fish from Wal-Mart), like I said I am a total newbie but want to learn the hobby. When my fish died they died one a day until all 8 fish died. They had like a white cloud over their eyes as they were dying. Then as soon as the fish died my algae problem got really bad. I discarded all my plants, changed my filter, put the light on a timer, and cleaned the glass. This weekend I would like to buy new plants and a couple of new fish and hope they live. Thanks everyone for your input I really appreciate it.
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cousinles View Post
I have a 15 watt light and a 35 gallon tank. The light has been on 24/7 for two years straight and the fish did not die until I changed the water. When I changed the water I emptied the whole tank and added two more fish from Wal-Mart and read later not to do that (drain hole tank or buy fish from Wal-Mart), like I said I am a total newbie but want to learn the hobby. When my fish died they died one a day until all 8 fish died. They had like a white cloud over their eyes as they were dying. Then as soon as the fish died my algae problem got really bad. I discarded all my plants, changed my filter, put the light on a timer, and cleaned the glass. This weekend I would like to buy new plants and a couple of new fish and hope they live. Thanks everyone for your input I really appreciate it.
We all learn from our mistakes, and many of us have gone through such problems.

Be aware that you now have what amounts to a new tank, and it has to be cycled to establish the bacteria cycle or the new fish will be stressed and may well die. I can't see anywhere in this thread the size of your tank, but one or two fish that are hardy will cycle it with some help from you. When you buy your fish, get a bottle of Stability which is a biological bacteria supplement that will cycle the tank with one or two fish in it and prevent losing the fish. It is made by Seachem. If they don't have Stability, "Cycle" by Nutrafin will also work. Follow the instructions on the label and use it when you put the fish in. As long as you only have one or two fish, you should be OK.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #17 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I can't see anywhere in this thread the size of your tank.
I have a 35 gallon tank.
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post #18 of 19 Old 08-11-2009, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cousinles View Post
I have a 35 gallon tank.
Thanks, what I said about cycling previous post will work fine in a 35 with two fish to start; once it is cycled for them (when you have ammonia and nitrite readings of "0" for consecutive days) you can add another couple of fish, wait, and so on. With "Stability" you will not have problems, I can assure you. Good luck.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #19 of 19 Old 08-12-2009, 05:22 AM
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Awesome input Byron, everyone!

Good luck on your "new" tank, and Thank You, for asking before doing!

Sometimes there's justice, sometimes there's just us!
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