Aquarium cycled/not cycling? **Please help** - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 17 Old 04-03-2007, 11:55 AM
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I agree also that you need to be very watchful for ammonia spikes. The addition of the driftwood and ringing the sponge may have done no more than gave you enough bacteria to handle what little food you were adding and now is handling the very few fish you have added. When I first did a fishless cycle I didn't even see ammonia for 5 days then it was trace for 3-4 days. I didn't add enough food and this was only a 10 gallon tank.

You can stick with the fish and as long as you don't get any ammonia or nitrites then you can add slowly, maybe up to 5 more. The tank is huge for that many fish so your ammonia levels could be there but are unreadeable.
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post #12 of 17 Old 04-05-2007, 08:23 PM
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I have a 55 gal tank that I started about a month ago. I seeded mine like you did with the sponge filter from an established tank and haven't had much if any readings for amonia or nitrites but the nitrates started going really high after I added 3 zebra danios. I've been doing 30-50% water changes 2x a week for the past couple of weeks and am finally getting better nitrate I think you should be testing for nitrates even if the ammonia and nitites are testing good.
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post #13 of 17 Old 04-05-2007, 08:53 PM
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I may be wrong, but I was told on larger tanks the cycling process takes longer. On my small tanks when I start cycling the tank, before I add fish, I would dump fish food on the gravel and let it rot for a week before vac'ing it up...the decomposing fish food seems to aid in bacteria growth. I have also read that cycling can take longer than two weeks, in my small tanks I have noticed its more like 7-10 days for the spike then the decline. I always add fish VERY carefully, as too many will cause a nitrate spike again.
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post #14 of 17 Old 04-06-2007, 10:46 AM
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The big thing on the size of the tank for cycling is the amount of bioload that you put in it. If you put the same fish load in a smaller tank, it will be more noticable on the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels. That is why when you start your first tank, it's a bit safer to start with a larger tank and low levels of fish as there is more water to diffuse levels. Using the fishfood method, you will probably want to use more food to create a larger load. In the long run to fully build up the full bacteria levels, it wil ltake longer though for the larger tanks. It's possible to cycle a larger tank with fish and never notice ammonia/nitrite spikes.
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post #15 of 17 Old 04-06-2007, 04:49 PM
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I am a big fan of using lots of fish food and some Cycle(r) or other bacteria aiding products. combine that with some rocks or driftwood from a cycled tank and some of the filter material in the new filter, I am ussually able to cycle a 20ish gallon tank in a week.

as far as the fish food goes, dump alot of it in one corner of the will rot away and after a week use a gravel vac in that corner to clean it up.

be very carefull adding fish for a couple weeks...
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post #16 of 17 Old 04-06-2007, 11:18 PM
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It is good that there is no ammonia and nitRITE in your tank, but the true test will require you to purchase a nitRATE test. when bacteria in your tank eat the ammonia and nitrite, they turn it into nitrate. If you are getting some nitRATE in the tank, but no ammonia or nitRITE, they your tank is cycling correctly, and you can begin adding a few fish at a time.

Remember if you add too many fish all at once you could be adding ammonia and nitRITE faster than your bacteria can catch upa nd eat it and you could harm or kill your fish.
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post #17 of 17 Old 04-08-2007, 07:38 AM
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When i did my cycle on my tank it seemed to take forever. Its so tempting to add more fish whilst cycling. So glad i didnt thou now.
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