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Ammonia spike

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Old 01-20-2014, 05:37 PM   #11
 
thank everyone for your feed back
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:08 AM   #12
 
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just wondering the ph of your tank? along with ammo,nitrite and nitrate.if those numbers could be provided it would help us to see the bigger picture.if you have a low ph,this could be an on going thing. best to figure it out now.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:07 PM   #13
 
I just use a test strip and it says 5.5 =/
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:09 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by densir2 View Post
I just use a test strip and it says 5.5 =/
Ouch!
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:12 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by rsskylight04 View Post
Ouch!

+1

no plants and heavy fish load in a new tank. low ph is expected.


My concern it that it also represents very high levels of carbon dioxide.

And fish could start dropping any day now.

I would add 4-6 bunches of anacharis even if just floating in the tank to consume the carbon dioxide.


my .02
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:49 AM   #16
 
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add a buffer to bring up the ph,like pure baking soda.
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:15 AM   #17
 
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Let's get back to basics. First of all, I infer that you're using test strips to evaluate your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH). Strips can be somewhat to very inaccurate. You won't really know what your readings are until you test with a liquid test kit like this one (which most of us use).
Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies


If your pH is really that low, there's little chance of achieving a nitrogen cycle. You'll have to modify your pH slowly by modifying your water hardness (GH and KH). This is easily done. (Much easier than softening water and lowering pH.) But we won't know how or how much until you get more accurate readings of your tank.

Until you get your test kit, do only small water changes (10%) every day. Dose Prime water conditioner by Seachem @ 2-drops gal tank size with every water change. If your pH really is that low, you don't want large wc's to change your pH radically. Prime is ensure any ammonia produced is safely detoxified.

Bbob brings up a good point. You should have a bubbler running and/or a filter splashing in order to oxygenate the water.

Eventually, you may have to get a hardness test to determine you GH and KH. This influences your pH and what measures you might take to raise and stabilize it. Only then can you effectively proceed to cycling your tank.

Last edited by Hallyx; 01-24-2014 at 07:24 AM..
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:04 AM   #18
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallyx View Post

.

Bbob brings up a good point. You should have a bubbler running and/or a filter splashing in order to oxygenate the water.

.
Just to be clear my actual point was to use plants to consume the carbon dioxide and return oxygen.

I have simply found that is much more effective that circulation.

But still that's just my .02

Last edited by beaslbob; 01-24-2014 at 09:07 AM..
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:09 AM   #19
 
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Throwing plants into a tank is not going to have the desired effect unless they are healthy and growing. For this you need appropriate lighting, maybe ferts. And that starts up a whole new learning curve.

I'd like to see the water evaluated, stabilized and corrcted (if necessary) and a strong conventional nitrogen cycle established. Then playing around with plants and learning their not inconsiderable requirements will be up the the OP.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:40 PM   #20
 
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Hope your tank is ok...?
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