Ammonia spike? - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 26 Old 02-18-2013, 05:57 PM
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Sweet. Then might I suggest that you get ceramic noodles and place into the recess. Continue to use the carbon filter until the have been all changed. It will polish the water. Keep one new in case you have to medicate the tank for fish disease( hopefully not). Place in only when the you need to remove the medication from the water column. When the time comes purchase the floss only filter. Rinse this and the black sponge filter every week with old tank water and they will last a lot longer.
Now onto the original problem about ammonia. This cycle could take several weeks. Try to keep ammonia down to zero ppm by frequent water changes. Hopefully you will see nitrites by next week. Continue keeping them as low as you can. They will both go to zero and nitrates will rise. Try to maintain nitrates as low as you can. Short term not lethal but long term can cause problems.
Now to live plants. They will take ammonia and molest it. Java moss is an awesome beginner and any low light stem plant will be awesome.
Hope we helped
TitanTDH
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post #22 of 26 Old 02-18-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thanks everybody for your help. Looks like I have some shopping to do in the near future.
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post #23 of 26 Old 02-18-2013, 07:03 PM
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Here's a picture of the top of one of the smaller top fin filters: Your sponge will go right where you see the sponge is in the picture....only you won't need that much sponge. Your ceramic media will then go behind the sponge. The ceramic media I use comes in it's own baggie.(which is awesome)

Brace Yourself.....Winter Is Coming
75 gallon Angel Paradise Updates:http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...gallon-220330/
Fluval Spec V Steel crowntail betta, 3 zebra danios,
Fluval Spec V - unnamed dumbo plaket betta, 3 zebra danios
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post #24 of 26 Old 02-19-2013, 06:08 PM
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Now that the filter issue has been resolved, we are back to your cycling.

Daily partial water changes of half the tank should be done if ammonia or nitrite test above zero. Use a conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite; Seachem's Prime and Aquarium Solutions Ultimate both do this, there may be others. Once the cycling is done, you can go back to your regular conditioner.

Ammonia above 0.2 can cause gill damage in many fish, and the higher the worse this can be. Molly are highly susceptible to ammonia.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #25 of 26 Old 02-20-2013, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I've been doing partial water changes in the morning and the evenings, about 1/2 of the water. My ammonia is still staying around 2-4. No signs of nitrite yet.
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post #26 of 26 Old 02-20-2013, 06:50 PM
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Keep doing changes until it reaches zero. If you do 50% and there's still ammonia. Do another 50%....still ammonia? Another 50% etc etc.

Brace Yourself.....Winter Is Coming
75 gallon Angel Paradise Updates:http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...gallon-220330/
Fluval Spec V Steel crowntail betta, 3 zebra danios,
Fluval Spec V - unnamed dumbo plaket betta, 3 zebra danios
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