How likely are the chances of having fry? If I get, lets say, 3 females and 1 male, will they mate? If, the chances are pretty high, can I have just 1 male? Will he be aggressive?
Also, what is the growth rate of Amazon Sword? I bought two several months ago for my 10 galllon, then decided to do the biotope, and just put them in a 1 gallon with low light (not the best growing conditions, I know;-)). Well now turns out I can use them. The only light is window light, no fish, no Co2, no heater, just Jungle root tabs. Should I use Flourish, too? Also, currently there is no water movement, is that ok?
How likely are the chances of having fry? If I get, lets say, 3 females and 1 male, will they mate? If, the chances are pretty high, can I have just 1 male? Will he be aggressive?
Almost guaranteed a male/female in the same tank will spawn. Cichlids protect their eggs and fry quite well, although in community tanks something usually gets them before long. It is amazing (well, probably not all that amazing really) how determined fish as "innocent" as corys can be when they detect fry. Most cichlids should be kept in a pair or group, with a few exceptions. It is more natural, and the spawning rituals can be very fascinating to observe.
Also, what is the growth rate of Amazon Sword? I bought two several months ago for my 10 galllon, then decided to do the biotope, and just put them in a 1 gallon with low light (not the best growing conditions, I know:wink. Well now turns out I can use them. The only light is window light, no fish, no Co2, no heater, just Jungle root tabs. Should I use Flourish, too? Also, currently there is no water movement, is that ok?
If you mean the Echinodorus bleherae, one will almost fill your 20g by itself once it gets going. But regular removel of some of the older leaves may inhibit growth a bit. I have found this species to basically grow to the aquarium size and not much beyond, especially if light is moderate and it is not overfed with nutrients.
Are your questions related to the 20g, or the temporary 1 gallon? In the 1 g as a temporary measure, the plants should remain alive. In the 20g I would absolutely consider artifical light, and fertilization. Root tabs are good with swords, and if you have any other plants such as floating or stem, liquid fert will be needed and the swords will make use of that too. CO2 is not necessary for swords.
I would love to breed the apistogrammas, but I don't have anywhere to sell/giveaway the fry.
The questions were for the 20g (annd I will get artifical light within 3-4 months), but considering how big the amazon swords will get, is there any smaller type of sword that won't take over my tank ?
I would hold off on the apistos for the present until the tank is established. There are other species too, for later.
Check the plant profiles for the Dwarf Sword and Pygmy Chain Sword (click on shaded names...). I would still use the sword you have, it might be Echinodorus amazonicus and not E. bleherae, they are identical but the E. amazonicus remains smaller.
Java Moss can be used to cover wood or rock; there are "mosses" in all tropical waters so while it may technically be a SE Asian moss it will basically look like those in South America.
AquaClears are supposed to be quiet, right? Mine is pretty noisey at the moment, ecspecially compared to my AquaTech, which makes no noise at all. Will it wear down over time? It's not the lid (mainly) and there isn't anything on the impeller...
I think you've narrowed down to the best of the tetra given your store list, tank size (20g high) and parameters. On the catfish, the Emerald is likely Brochis splendens although it might be Corydoras aeneus. Nothing wrong with Brochis except they grow larger so I would ensure it is a cory if that is chosen. Both are in our profiles along with info on telling them apart.
Sponge filters are normally sold in fish stores, at least those around here. In fact I bought one yesterday.
I've been thinking and realized I don't like hatchetfish (lol). Would bloodfins school at the top of the aquarium enough to be the only thing up there? How is this stocking plan (sorry it changed again...):
7 bloodfin tetra
7 neon tetra
5 cories
1 bristlenose pleco (when I have enough algae)
1-2 dwarf cichlids
I could still put something in there, right? What should it be?
I have emerald cories and I love them! They are so much fun to watch swimming around together darting from surface to substrate Posted via Mobile Device
I know, they always look so active at the store! Can't wait to get them.
I plan to get the plants in late October-early November by the way. Sorry for the wait, but I have to save up my money (well actually earn money and then save it ;-)).
For something I can do right now, should I gather any rocks or bark or leaves (I've seen a few aquariums with them) or something (I live near woods)?
One must be careful collecting "wild" objects. Rocks can absorb toxic substances and there is no way to extract these but they can leech out over time in the aquarium. If there are no roads, houses, industrial sites in the area of the rocks, they may be suitable. Then the issue is calcium; if they are calcareous they will harden the water and raise the pH. A few drops of acid on the rock will test for calcium; if it fizzes, it is calcareous. Some use vinegar, but it really is not strong enough; the regent #2 in the nitrate test kit is acid and that is more reliable.
Leaves need to be thoroughly dried. Oak leaves work; there are some others, I think Aunt kymmie has used, she may spot this and chime in. On no account put fresh or non-dried leaves in the tank. The leaves will rot and need to be removed and replaced. Dwarf cichlid aquarists use leaves for some cichlid species that spawn on them. I have know reputable cichlid aquarists who have killed off entire tanks of fish due to toxins leeching from leaves.
Wood carries similar risks. Oak or any hardwood works, never coniferous or softwoods. And again, it must be completely dead and dry. Then soaked (boiled to removed parasites). Branches work better than large pieces and are less likely to cause trouble.
I plan on taking th driftwood out of the 10g and put it in the 20g. It's pretty big (16 or 17", maybe a little more). How/where should I put it within the tank? (Will post pics soon showing a couple different positions)
The "Compacta" is a hybrid, not a natural species, and I've never had it or seen it locally. I assume from the name it is not as big, but perhaps someone who is familiar with it can tell us.
Here is my idea as far as plants (first let me show you some pics):
Zoom-in near wood:
Above tank:
Side veiw
I plan to put E. Cordifolius behind the driftwood in the back-left corner.
Bacopa Australis will be in clumps of 2-4 stems around the driftwood.
Amazon Sword will go on the right half of the aquarium, mostly filling that area.
Pennywort will be floating and planted.
E. Tenellus (or however you spell it) will be on the ground in the remaining areas (except for parts trimmed back for cories).
That sounds good plant-wise. One thought on the wood (nice piece too), when you have substrate it will be easier I know, to move it a bit. Slightly forward and to the right, just a tad, with the end on the substrate, leaving the other end in the corner. If that makes any sense.
Very excited to see this all set up. Posted via Mobile Device
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