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This is a discussion on Amazon biotope within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Have you read the profile of the Serpae Tetra? I think it answers you quite clearly, they are not a normal community fish....

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Old 09-21-2010, 02:44 PM   #91
 
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Have you read the profile of the Serpae Tetra? I think it answers you quite clearly, they are not a normal community fish.
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Old 09-21-2010, 04:05 PM   #92
 
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Have you read the profile of the Serpae Tetra? I think it answers you quite clearly, they are not a normal community fish.
Ohh... I really sorry, I meant to read it and just... forgot.
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:23 PM   #93
 
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Ohh... I really sorry, I meant to read it and just... forgot.
Shame...

I may have to ostracize you from the Amazonian fan club

Byron.
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:01 PM   #94
 
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I may have to ostracize you from the Amazonian fan club
Now that would be a shame...
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:46 PM   #95
 
I just got a magazine to THATfishPLACE which is only online or in this magazine of whatever, not an lfs... (I didn't even know I was on their mailing list, but it works for me ). Here are their sponge filters:

- Lustar Hydro Sponge Filters
- Hydro Pro Sponge Filters
- Lee's Dual-Action Foam Filter

How often do you have to replace the sponge for these? True, they're only like $10 at the most, but the replacement (actually the first one is the only one with them available to buy) is $4. If you have to replace it every month, doesn't that end up to be a lot? I can't get them at my LFS so I don't know if this makes sense...


Also, their heaters are pretty inexpensive $16.59 - 21.09 for the cheapest ones for 20 gallons. It is the Marineland Visi-Therm Deluxe Submersible Heater, Hydor THEO Heaters, and the Eheim Ebo Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater.

Any comments about any of the products?

Last edited by TFish; 09-23-2010 at 04:06 PM..
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:38 PM   #96
 
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As far as heaters, The brand is pretty irrelevant in my opinion.

I don't think sponge filters have to be replaced often at all- I would imagine you just replace them when they fall apart... (I'd imagine a year or two?)
Periodically you should probably remove the sponge and squeeze it out into aquarium water to remove the detritus and 'unclog' it.

I would strongly reccomend that you find a sponge filter that can be attached to a powerhead rather than an airstone... Airstones drive CO2 out of the water- a bad thing even if you are supplementing it.

In planted aquaria, there is some speculation that supplemental CO2 does strange things to the substrate bed. I've heard of several people (many of them professionals) that use CO2, have explosive plant growth for a year or two, and then the balance in the aquarium suddenly and inexplicably collapses resulting in a sudden and massive outbreak of algae, usually killing the plants within a week or two.

I don't think there's been any research done on what exactly happens... It's pretty safe to assume that it's some sort of domino affect that stacks silently overtime until the organisms in the aquarium can no longer keep it in check.
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:45 PM   #97
 
That fish place is a store in lancaster PA, its known for its huge selection of fish and everything pertaining to fish.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:01 PM   #98
 
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Sponge filters, I agree, they basically never wear out, though I suppose eventually they might start to fall apart. Treat them the same as filter pads in canisters or HOB filters. Rinse them so they don't clog (sponge does clog, as does any filter material intended to trap fine particulate matter); how often depends upon the tank and fish load. Every week during the partial water change works. If live plants are in the tank, they can be rinsed in tap water; if no plants, I would rinse them in tank water to avoid killing the bacteria.

Heaters, my advice is to buy the best. There is probably no equipment more important than the heater. If the filter stops, esp in planted tanks, you have time to repair/replace it before trouble (fish loss). If the heater malfunctions overnight, either overheating or no heating, all the fish could be dead by morning. I speak from experience. And the better heaters have a much better track record for reliability. The higher wattage heaters are the same, they work better. My 150w and 200w heaters have never failed in more than a decade; but I've lost 4-5 50w heaters over the same period when they just failed (some overheated, some didn't heat at all). There are some things where saving a few dollars is not wise, and the heater is one of these. For a 20g, I would get a 100w or 150w. I have read several times here that Stealth heaters are good. Eheim I would trust. My last heater purchase was a Fluval that has the LCD display of the temperature; I like this heater. I've had it for just over a year, as one of two heaters in the 115g, and no issues yet. I got it because of the temp digital display, more reliable than thermometers.

I would not use a powerhead on a sponge filter esp in small (20g) tanks. I have a sponge in my 10g, 20g and 33g tanks, hooked up to an air pump in the 10g and 20g, they work fine. The 33g is an enclosed Eheim sponge filter with its own motor; I believe they don't make these any longer, too bad, a super little filter.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:56 PM   #99
 
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For a 20g, I would get a 100w or 150w. I have read several times here that Stealth heaters are good. Eheim I would trust.
I think I'll go with Eheim, but probably a 75 watt. It (the chart) says that 75 watts is for 16-26 gallons, 100 is for 26-40, 125 is for 40-53, and 150 is for 53-79. I would be concerned with the 125 overheating the tank and would be weary about purchasing a 100...

Any thoughts?
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:39 PM   #100
 
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I think I'll go with Eheim, but probably a 75 watt. It (the chart) says that 75 watts is for 16-26 gallons, 100 is for 26-40, 125 is for 40-53, and 150 is for 53-79. I would be concerned with the 125 overheating the tank and would be weary about purchasing a 100...

Any thoughts?
In heater higher wattage does not mean overheating, quite the opposite. The lower the wattage, the harder and longer the heater has to be on to heat the water to the set temperature. And on this point, room temperature also factors in. If you read the fine print on most heaters (reliable ones anyway) they will tell you that the heater will only heat the water if the ambient room temperature is within a specific number of degrees from where you want the tank temp. In other words, if you set up the aquarium in an ice igloo, no heater will heat the water to 78F. The room temp in which the tank sits has to be within a reasonable temperature.

So, back to your heater; if the room is kept at say 68F, and you want the tank to be 78F, a 150w heater will keep the tank at that temperature with considerably less effort than a 50w. Therefore, the 150w heater works better, is more reliable, and lasts longer than the lower rated heater in this situation. This is one reason why 50w heaters fail so often; they have to work too hard and too long to handle the task, and they just wear out.

I have a 150w heater in my 20g. I have a 200w in my 33g. I have two 200w in my larger tanks. My 10g has a 150w because the 75w gave out. All of these tanks are a constant 78F. Today the room is 70F, it's a cool damp (rainy) day outside. As I said earlier, the heater is the single most important piece of equipment in the fish tank; think of having to replace all the fish tomorrow morning if your heater malfunctions overnight. And they can. And fish that are chilled by as little as 5-6 degrees can break out in ich, not to mention the effect this has on their metabolism.
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