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Algae Issues

This is a discussion on Algae Issues within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> I suppose it could definitely be the light... I use two sixty watt flourescent spiral bulbs in two dome lights designed for reptile tanks. ...

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Old 01-25-2010, 08:50 PM   #11
 
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I suppose it could definitely be the light... I use two sixty watt flourescent spiral bulbs in two dome lights designed for reptile tanks. I assume this is probably too much light, but the dwarf babies tears say it's not enough! I can't afford to change the lighting situation too much but I could drop the wattage to get less lumens... How do I calculate how many lumens I need? When I had the plants in a 2.5 gal, I was using 1 40 watt of the same kind, with no ill effects until a month or so before I switched to the 10 gal.

I wasn't having the cyanobacteria infestation for a very long time, and have been using these bulbs, so it must be the intensity. I have 3 otos in the tank, so the bio load is nil, and i rarely feed them anything. Since the bio load is nil, I do water changes maybe once a month in this tank. All levels (ph, GH, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate) are checking out fine, and I will test again tonight. My tanks consistently have 40-65ish ppm on nitrate, it's our water I think.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:08 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaddock View Post
I suppose it could definitely be the light... I use two sixty watt flourescent spiral bulbs in two dome lights designed for reptile tanks. I assume this is probably too much light, but the dwarf babies tears say it's not enough! I can't afford to change the lighting situation too much but I could drop the wattage to get less lumens... How do I calculate how many lumens I need? When I had the plants in a 2.5 gal, I was using 1 40 watt of the same kind, with no ill effects until a month or so before I switched to the 10 gal.

I wasn't having the cyanobacteria infestation for a very long time, and have been using these bulbs, so it must be the intensity. I have 3 otos in the tank, so the bio load is nil, and i rarely feed them anything. Since the bio load is nil, I do water changes maybe once a month in this tank. All levels (ph, GH, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate) are checking out fine, and I will test again tonight. My tanks consistently have 40-65ish ppm on nitrate, it's our water I think.
I said previously cyanobacteria is an organics issue, and you have just proven it. Nitrate at 40-65ppm is way too high. It should never exceed 20ppm, and preferably remain at 10ppm or lower. This tank is planted, correct? My tanks with large fish loads have nitrate at 5ppm, Kymmie's are zero. Nitrates should never be high in planted tanks unless they are coming from the water or the fish load. Test your water. If you use the API test kit, Regeant #2 has to be shaken 2 minutes, not 30 seconds as the instructions read, or you will get a faulty reading. Prime water conditioner detoxifies nitrates for 24-48 hours, so if the tank is balanced to begin with and you have nitrates in the tap water, Prime should handle them. This is the cause of the cyanobacteria, in the presence of light. Without addressing the nitrates, changing the light won't be a long-term solution.

Byron.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:28 PM   #13
 
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Talking

Byron,

Yes, I have been battling the nitrates for quite some time now... Ammonia and Nitrite are at zero, but the Nitrates are ever present... I will try to get some nitrate detox. Two minutes huh? Weird, I will do that when I test tonight, and let you know.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:35 PM   #14
 
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Ok, several factors I also wanna comment on here: The light can be exchanges with a proper daylight rated at 6500K from Lowes or Homedepot or Walmart for like $5 for a 2-pack; which hopefully shouldn't break your bank, that'll take care of the light issue.

What you say about Nitrates and water changes...You have GOT TO do w/c weekly once a week and then about 40% of the tank volume usuing a proper water conditioner (eg Prime). This 1x a month is just not cutting it and most likly the source of your problem right there.
Apart from how much you feed, your fish still have to pee & poop and that is what needs removing by w/c and 1x month is just not enough sorry and that's also the reason you're not getting your Nitrates under control and you will not get them under control until you change your habit of w/c.

I don't mean to sound harsh or anything but I wanna help you and unless you change how you treat the tank this won't improve to be honest with you.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:11 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Angel079 View Post
Ok, several factors I also wanna comment on here: The light can be exchanges with a proper daylight rated at 6500K from Lowes or Homedepot or Walmart for like $5 for a 2-pack; which hopefully shouldn't break your bank, that'll take care of the light issue.
Hmmm 6500k would be a 15 watt bulb of the type I'm using, which would leave my tank dim and gloomy... Not to mention that my baby tears don't seem to get enough light even with the 60watts... I don't understand how this can work.

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What you say about Nitrates and water changes...You have GOT TO do w/c weekly once a week and then about 40% of the tank volume usuing a proper water conditioner (eg Prime). This 1x a month is just not cutting it and most likly the source of your problem right there.
Apart from how much you feed, your fish still have to pee & poop and that is what needs removing by w/c and 1x month is just not enough sorry and that's also the reason you're not getting your Nitrates under control and you will not get them under control until you change your habit of w/c.
I'll will start more frequent changes, but I don't want you to think that the load on the aquarium is excessive: this tank is less than a month old!

I will test, do a water change, remove as much algae etc as possible, and let you know how things go. You mentioned in a previous post that I should kick up the light to 10 hrs a day once this is controlled... Won't that just encourage algae to return?

Also, I just bought another gallon of stress coat... Does Seachem Prime do all the chores of Stress Coat, plus detoxify nitrate? I know Stress Coat does heavy metals, but I don't think nitrate.

Last edited by Kaddock; 01-25-2010 at 11:14 PM..
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:22 PM   #16
 
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Ok, I have these "dim and gloomy" daylight bulbs from Lows over my tanks and be my guest to check it out, its anything but dim tank and the baby tears are thriving in 3 of my tank set ups like crazy right now, one of which has fluorescent on it that avg 0.5 watt per gallon.
Dwarf Baby tears often then don't thrive well when buried into gravel rather then attached to a screen or for lack of nutritions of which plants need some 17 different once.
Trust me I'm by no means trying to fool you hear I know my stuff if its coming down to planted tanks

I can't comment on the load as I do not know what your tank size is and exactly how many of what fish lives in there. Lemme put it this way, my 45g has 4 Rummy nose and 5 Albino Corys and gets a weekly w/c of ~30-40% right now.

Algae grows in unbalanced tank set ups if you turn your light up or down will not matter for as long as all other factors in your tank are not in balance with the light. I have some tanks run 9hrs and other 13hrs and neither one got algae growing there.

Prime is your very best bet as it does all chlorine, metals, ammonia etc etc etc; all other conditioners I know of and have known over the years only do one part or another but not both.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:44 PM   #17
 
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hi Kaddock

Just wanted to jump in here and 1. say welcome because I haven't seen you around here before and 2. say that Angel079 and Byron are my personal plant god/goddess. So whatever they say, I won't argue. I just saw in my tank yesterday two new types of algae that have started to break out and I think one may be cyanobacteria. I'm just leaving it there because it's a small piece and I know that removing it is just a temporary solution. I'm watching it and seeing what happens because when I want it to be gone, I know what to do. Post about it on this forum!!! And I'm already experimenting with fertilizer dosages and lighting for other reasons so I'm slowly bringing my tank back into balance. I hope you find balance too : )

But the main thing I wanted to say is I was laughing my butt off when I read your signature

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Old 01-26-2010, 12:10 AM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel079 View Post
Ok, I have these "dim and gloomy" daylight bulbs from Lows over my tanks and be my guest to check it out, its anything but dim tank and the baby tears are thriving in 3 of my tank set ups like crazy right now, one of which has fluorescent on it that avg 0.5 watt per gallon.
Dwarf Baby tears often then don't thrive well when buried into gravel rather then attached to a screen or for lack of nutritions of which plants need some 17 different once.
Trust me I'm by no means trying to fool you hear I know my stuff if its coming down to planted tanks
I'm not doubting you, just confused about lighting I guess! I will definitely try the 6500k.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel079 View Post
I can't comment on the load as I do not know what your tank size is and exactly how many of what fish lives in there. Lemme put it this way, my 45g has 4 Rummy nose and 5 Albino Corys and gets a weekly w/c of ~30-40% right now.'
It is a ten gallon with 3 tiny otocinclus in it.

Thanks for all this info, I will definitely be trying a few things over the next several days.
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:14 AM   #19
 
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Rather then repeating...this may help you understand better http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...um-part-34862/
Plants simply need something similar (or as close to) as the natural set up they'd be in, which in tanks is achieved with full spectrum lights ranging from 5-6500Kelvin (or a mix of both where possible) and a proper wattage (which most folks, like 99.99% in freshwater have too much wattage rather then too lil which will indeed melt plants).

Here's a shot from my 2g, this is stocked with a Bright Effects daylight bulb @ 6500K and 7w (being CFL that's ~30watts) but its neither dim nor too bright and works fine for the plants.

Between Light- Nutrition- Fish- Water exchange....that's where your tank needs to be balanced.

PS its MUCHHH easier to actually balance a larger tank and maintain a larger tank then a small one; so upgrading may be a option to you down the Rd
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #20
 
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Unhappy

OK so I've been checking out light bulbs, do you think two of these would be good for replacing my current ones (which I looked up and they say N/A under Ks)?: Shop Bright Effects Daylight 40-Watt Replacement CFL Twist Bulb at Lowes.com

Oh btw, that tank and light fixture are the exact same ones I started my plants in! 2g right? LoL.

Well, I did a water change, and treated with Prime. Guess what... No drop in nitrate levels. The test still came out red (and yes I shook reagent 2 for 2min). My ammonia and pH are fine, and I need a new nitrite test, but I've never had issues with nitrite, always 0 ppm.

I've done the water change, treated with prime, scraped the bacteria again, added a bit o' flourish.

Now I need new bulbs, need to install an air pump as I notice a stagnant spot in my water circulation...

So my only problem is nitrates. Nitrates, nitrates. Nothing makes me angrier in this hobby. I have never been able to neutralize my nitrates in any of my tanks. Period. And Prime didn't help. Any other ideas? More Prime? I used 2 drops per gallon as directed. Help! I will do a black out soon, but as you said Angel, it won't matter if I don't eliminate the issues...
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