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algae

This is a discussion on algae within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> it is a seperate unit - the water runs through it and a UV bulb purifies stuff: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...pc=1&N=0&Nty=1 for more info....

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Old 09-19-2006, 01:57 PM   #11
 
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it is a seperate unit - the water runs through it and a UV bulb purifies stuff:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...pc=1&N=0&Nty=1

for more info.
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:04 PM   #12
 
uvs are $$$ how bout just scrub the glass with a scrubber
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:08 PM   #13
 
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80$ for up to 125gal tank doesnt seem too bad to me if it really works....
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:10 PM   #14
 
srry the only one i saw 170 didnt click the link
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:14 PM   #15
 
I have that same UV, and it works like a charm. You just need the right water flow going through it. I have mine hooked up to maxi-jet 400 power head.
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Old 09-19-2006, 06:00 PM   #16
 
UV or ultraviolet is best used to allow for the best dwell time (amount of time the water makes contact with the light). Specific UVs have a manufacturer rating regarding the dwell time, depending on the specific need.

For example..
If you have an Eheim Pro II 2126 canister filter, which has a manufacturer flow rate of 250 GPH. According to Coralife's website, the instructions (page 5) state the following...

Quote:
9 watt - 55 GPH to eliminate parasites, 121 GPH to eliminate algae, 253 to eliminate bacteria

18 watt - 110 GPH to eliminate parasites, 240 GPH to eliminate algae, 500 to eliminate bacteria

36 watt - 290 GPH to eliminate parasites, 680 GPH to eliminate algae, 1550 to eliminate bacteria
You want the best dwell time (length of time the water runs through the UV lamp) for your filter. So if your main purpose is to eliminate algae, then the 18 watt is sufficient if connected to the Eheim Pro II 2026 filter. Otherwise, you can connect a bigger UV, such as the 36 watt to the canister OR connect to a seperate powerhead to the UV filter.

I also use a UV and connect it to a powerhead, so I can easily transfer the UV to any tank having problems with algae or if I want to eleminate parasites.
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:58 PM   #17
 
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i need a cheaper alternative...also joe, its not algae growing on the glass, its a bloom in the water makin it all green and cloudy

bri
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Old 09-21-2006, 05:34 PM   #18
 
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Green Floating Algae
-caused by excessive lighting and high nitrates and phosphates
You'll need a blackout from 3 days to a week by covering your whole tank and not allow any penetration of light.
UV sterilizers will also work. And so will a bunch of daphnia(if your tank has no fish).

Pls take note, green floating algae can kill your fish by consuming at night the oxygen thus suffocating the fish. Not only that, if the algae die, much CO2 will be released killing the fish.
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:55 PM   #19
 
i had that problem once- used blackout which helped for a while but then didnt- so i carried on regular water change 10 gals every 5 days, lighting 5 hours a day on a timer- irregular lighting can cause this, and then the thing that turned it around was peat extract a capful for evey 5 gal water change- o yeah and a cap of bacteria start an hour after every water change.
Then it cleared.

Water changes can kill off the bacteria in your filter, so if the tank is not mature it might be struggling to settle. Try those 2 treatments, its cheap enough with no risk.
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:54 PM   #20
 
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I've heard that the algae blooms which are evidenced by green water and not just algae on the glass of the tank, will just continue if you keep changing the water. I remember having green water in the past and don't recall what I did about it unfortunately. Eventually the problem clears itself. Keep the lights low, only a few hours each day, and try some live plants.
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