02-08-2011, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Byron
Back in the 1980's I used the bucket method, and my largest tank then was a 55g. As someone mentinoed, the buckets have to be higher than the tank, so I had two stacking tables. Lifting a 3 gallon pail of water high is not that easy, as I think tanker mentioned. Then in the 1990's when I bought my 90g the store sold me a Python. I've never looked back.
And stores here connect directly to the tap, same as I do. As long as you know what is in your water, you can manage fine. After I drained out about half the tank, I adjust the temp at the faucet to closely mjatch the tank and then flick the valve and start filling. I walk back into the fishroom and squirt the conditioner in and leave it to fill. In more than 15 years I've only once had a problem, and that was when I forgot the conditioner in one tank.
Water conditioners work instantly, so there is no danger of chlorine/chloramine using the direct tap fill method if the conditioner is in the tank within a few moments of starting to fill. I've even had fish swimming into the current, and they would never do that if their gills were being burned by chlorine.
CPFAN001, may I ask what adjusting you are doing to the water, aside from conditioner? It may not be necessary, depending upon what it is. And changing more of the tank water may be beneficial, depending upon your situation with fish species. The more water changed, the better for the fish. I do 50-60% weekly.
Thanks for the info - what is this python you speak of?
Evidentally my since of touch and temp is not the best... I am usually off by 5 or 7 degrees. My community fish seem to like 77.7 degrees so I am afraid of putting hose to tank with my poor judge of temp. So the cholorine treatment and getting the temp to match is basically what I am doing before I add water.