90 Gallon Tank - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 9Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 36 Old 04-28-2013, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
New Member
 
90 Gallon Tank

Hello, I am new to this forum. Let me introduce myself. My name is Franklin and I live in Houston, TX. I have a 90 gallon tank with 8 angelfish, 1 Royal Pleco, 1 Green Phantom Pleco, 1 Orange Spotted Pleco, 4 Golden Balloon Electric Blue Rams, and 10 Buenos Aires Tetras. I recently did a major décor reconstruction on my tank. I had black sand but removed all of it (did this slowly within a month) and added gravel. Then I had put in a cured piece of driftwood. After all this I also added two Black Angel Longfins (juvenile) to the tank. I think the two newly added angelfish were sick because I did not find them ever again. A day later, my angelfish start acting weird. They started to stay near the top of the tank. I noticed without the aquarium light on, the fish had a red tint as if they were internally bleeding. I started to treat them with Melafix. 3 of my angels passed but I have 5 remaining. Funny thing is, none of the other fish in the tank seemed to be affected at all. I have recently finished a 7 day treatment cycle and put the carbon back into my filter. The Angelfish are still near the top. I think there is something wrong, but why not the other fish? My water parameters are as follows...

pH - 7.6
Ammonia - 0ppm-.25ppm
Nitrite - .25 ppm
Nitrate - 80 ppm

If anyone could help me out please, it would be greatly appreciated. I will post pictures soon
frrranklinn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 36 Old 04-28-2013, 08:24 PM
Member
 
MoneyMitch's Avatar
 
going by the readings you had a mini cycle, could of been what did them in
MoneyMitch is offline  
post #3 of 36 Old 04-28-2013, 09:51 PM
Member
 
Boredomb's Avatar
 
It looks like you tank is cycling being cause its new or you sent it into a "mini" cycle either way those readings are not good for fish. Nitrites at any level can be bad if not deadly if they are in it for a prolonged period. Nitrates are a little bit safer but at those numbers can cause problems over time. If it was me I would do more frequent water changes starting out at 25% and gradually moving up to 50%+ water changes. I would do some heavy gravel vacuuming also. Clean water is what you are after with numbers of Ammonia -0, Nitrites-0, and Nitrates-20 or less is best.
Byron likes this.

Boredomb is offline  
post #4 of 36 Old 04-28-2013, 10:07 PM
Member
 
jaysee's Avatar
 
It's really important to quarantine new fish.
Byron likes this.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
jaysee is online now  
post #5 of 36 Old 04-29-2013, 09:26 AM
+2 - API Melafix is an antibacterial so you just may be starting over with cycling. As mentioned you need sufficient water changes and testing to get the params down to safe limits. I'd also suggest using Seachem Prime conditioner as it can aid in cycling because it detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 24-48 hours helping to protect the fish and develop the BB.

Note: also, although possible, I think it's more rare that fish just disappear (e.g. get eaten over night...unless you have some real toothy stock). Decaying fish will cause problems with your water parameters. I'd look long and hard for dead bodies as sick fish often hunker down in the most unlikely places.
Byron likes this.

Father Knows Best but Abbey knows everything! I once knew everything, then I asked one question.
` •...><((((º>` • . ¸¸ . • ´` • . . . ¸><((((º>¸ . • ´` • .. . ¸ ><((((º>

Last edited by AbbeysDad; 04-29-2013 at 09:34 AM.
AbbeysDad is offline  
post #6 of 36 Old 04-29-2013, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
New Member
 
I have Prime already. So I should just keep doing water changes daily and test the water everyday? How about feeding? I was reading the bottle I can give more dosage to eliminate the nitrates nitrites.
Posted via Mobile Device
frrranklinn is offline  
post #7 of 36 Old 04-29-2013, 12:41 PM
Member
 
Geomancer's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by frrranklinn View Post
I have Prime already. So I should just keep doing water changes daily and test the water everyday? How about feeding? I was reading the bottle I can give more dosage to eliminate the nitrates nitrites.
Posted via Mobile Device
It doesn't get rid of them, it just binds to them to make them temporarily non-toxic. That only lasts for a day or two when they once again become toxic. Even when bound though, they will still show up with test kits so you will not get a zero ppm reading.

As long as Ammonia and/or Nitrite are present I would do water changes every 48 hours if you are using Prime. Sooner (daily) if Ammonia/Nitrite levels rise.

80 ppm Nitrate is also quite high, you want that to be no more than 20 ppm but less is obviously best.
Byron likes this.
Geomancer is offline  
post #8 of 36 Old 04-29-2013, 02:21 PM
Member
 
Byron's Avatar
 
I concur with what's been suggested. As someone who has had this very same problem, I may be able to add a bit.

Tank-raised fish (which angelfish will be unless you deal with a direct importer of wild fish--but the Black Lace is a tank-bred variant so not wild anyway) seem to be carrying more and more pathogen, especially internal protozoan, these days. I now quarantine all new fish for 5-6 weeks, since I lost about 1/3 of my main tank a couple years ago. Melafix and similar products will not help if the issue is internal protozoan.

Adding two angelfish to an established tank should not in itself have caused any ammonia or nitrite issues. But there was the recent make-over with new substrate (even if done in stages). Are there live plants? Floating plants (which angelfish like on their own) will help a lot when it comes to nitrification, and issues with minor problems are easily handled.

Another issue that occurs to me is adding angelfish to an existing shoal. This is never a good idea. The existing group will have their hierarchy within the group, and any newcomers will almost always be seen as intruders. Some suggest moving the existing fish to a new environment when adding new fish can get around this, and sometimes it does, but sometimes not. Once a group of angels is in a tank, leave them. The additional stress of this aggression, on top of the considerable stress of moving the new angels to this different environment, plus any of the other issues...pretty soon it is a considerable stress load and this will cause some health issues that might perhaps have been fought off otherwise.

As trouble is still present (the behaviour of the angelfish) I second doing daily water changes of half the tank, using Prime but not more than needed. I assume the nitrates are not in the source (tap) water? Water changes should get these down, which is important. Vacuum the substrate too, as suggested earlier by someone.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

Last edited by Byron; 04-29-2013 at 02:25 PM.
Byron is offline  
post #9 of 36 Old 04-29-2013, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
New Member
 
I will test the water from my faucet when I get home. I will do daily 50% water changes with vacuuming the gravel. The angelfish are the only fish near the top of the tank. The other fish appear to be normal and eating. If I am doing a 50% water change should I add enough prime for 90 gallons? Or just half.
Posted via Mobile Device
frrranklinn is offline  
post #10 of 36 Old 04-29-2013, 03:51 PM
Member
 
Boredomb's Avatar
 
There is some debate on that but in this situation I personally would add enough for the tank. After you get the nitrites gone and the nitrates down I would just use enough for the amount of water you add back during a water change.

Boredomb is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
55 gallon angel tank and 120 gallon semi aggressive allaboutfish Aquarium Photography 5 09-10-2012 03:14 AM
New 55 Gallon Tank: Combine All Fish Into One 55 Gallon Or Keep 2 10 Gallon? zaichev Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 2 09-06-2012 01:42 PM
Stocking my 105-gallon display tank and 20 gallon sump fishr4life Saltwater Fish 2 01-27-2008 03:51 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome