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40GB Planted...fishless cycle?

This is a discussion on 40GB Planted...fishless cycle? within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> I feel bad hyjacking this thread, but I see if I PM Byron, I can't attach pictures. If in the first pic you posted, ...

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40GB Planted...fishless cycle?
Old 01-16-2012, 06:05 PM   #21
 
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I feel bad hyjacking this thread, but I see if I PM Byron, I can't attach pictures. If in the first pic you posted, the leaves are out of water, this could be what I have. You can tell better, I'm sure. I've attached some pictures of my vals. Thanks again for your help and advise! I can keep away from vacuuming because I do have a sand bottom, and don't see much there anyways, beside some loose leaf debris. I use RO water with a ph of 6.3-6.4, so I don't think I should have phosphate problems that come with harder water.

Gwen
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:57 PM   #22
 
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Yes, that is brush algae. And those leaves it is on are yellowing (= dying) so I would remove them.

I have noticed that when brush algae attaches to leaves of swords, vall, crypt and begins to spread on that leaf the leaf is always dying. I've no idea if the leaf begins to die and the algae attaches, or the reverse.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:24 PM   #23
 
Byron:

I too have some algae on the first plants in the photos, Val and Annubis Nana not sure. I was told that the slower growing plants will get algae and I believe it is true because none of my other plants have any alage on them. I get some algae on my glass which comes off easily and my hoses and heater tubes but at time it seems to go away. I bought some Octo's and they seem to do a good job. Are slower growing plants more
susceptible to algae issues.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #24
 
In some of those photo's I see what looks like thread and if it is that is what I had untill I started adding Co2 and also lowering any phosphate in th tank.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:42 PM   #25
 
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In some of those photo's I see what looks like thread and if it is that is what I had untill I started adding Co2 and also lowering any phosphate in th tank.

I do think that phosphates could be an issue in one of my tanks, as the PH is around 7.4. I do have this algae in both tanks. But in the tank, I took the picture of, I shouldn't as my ph is very low at 6.3. Phosphates are related to hard water, I believe.

Gwen
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:10 PM   #26
 
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Byron:

I too have some algae on the first plants in the photos, Val and Annubis Nana not sure. I was told that the slower growing plants will get algae and I believe it is true because none of my other plants have any alage on them. I get some algae on my glass which comes off easily and my hoses and heater tubes but at time it seems to go away. I bought some Octo's and they seem to do a good job. Are slower growing plants more
susceptible to algae issues.
Slow growing plants such as Anubias will easily attract brush algae. This is a bit different; it is not because the leaf is dying, as above. The key to preventing this is to provide less light to Anubias; it does best in shade, as under overhanging plants like swords, and with floating plants; Anubias does not like bright light.

Otos, along with other algae-eating fish such as Bristlenose pleco, Farlowella vittata, Whiptail Cat, will not eat brush algae. There are two fish that will, but they are not suitable for smaller tanks. In any case, I always recommend controlling the algae naturally to prevent it, rather than encouraging it and relying on something to eat it.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:49 AM   #27
 
Byron yes you are correct on both issues, I have two anubias plants in my tank, one that is exposed to the light that has some algae on it and the other which is under a rather large plant and is nice and green with no algae. A natural means on controlling algae is always better but sometimes if you have plants there is a fine line on how much light is needed or not. My idea was that sometimes other help is needed and while Oct's do not eat brush algae they do a good job on other types of algae especially on plants that algae seems to acccumulate on. I was told butby some web-sites as well as reading articles on plants that it is almost impossible to have no algae growing in a tank and that some algae only duplicates what in the wiild. There is so much information out on the net and a lot of conflicting information person to person, web-site to web-site. I just try to find out what works and what does not for me and post it. What is good for one person may not work for someone else. I just keep pluging away. Byron, you have provided me with much insight and knowledge and always a pleasure to communicate with you and others on this web-site.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:50 AM   #28
 
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FYI, for Byron, that leaf in above pic is actually dark green, it's just the way the camera took the picture and the light that makes it look like it's yellow

Gwen
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:34 AM   #29
 
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FYI, for Byron, that leaf in above pic is actually dark green, it's just the way the camera took the picture and the light that makes it look like it's yellow

Gwen
Gotcha. Keep an eye on it. Many of my plant leaves have brush algae on them, and tey are not decaying. But when I notice one leaf more than the others supporting more and more brush algae, it usually means a decaying leaf.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:02 PM   #30
 
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Byron yes you are correct on both issues, I have two anubias plants in my tank, one that is exposed to the light that has some algae on it and the other which is under a rather large plant and is nice and green with no algae. A natural means on controlling algae is always better but sometimes if you have plants there is a fine line on how much light is needed or not. My idea was that sometimes other help is needed and while Oct's do not eat brush algae they do a good job on other types of algae especially on plants that algae seems to acccumulate on. I was told butby some web-sites as well as reading articles on plants that it is almost impossible to have no algae growing in a tank and that some algae only duplicates what in the wiild. There is so much information out on the net and a lot of conflicting information person to person, web-site to web-site. I just try to find out what works and what does not for me and post it. What is good for one person may not work for someone else. I just keep pluging away. Byron, you have provided me with much insight and knowledge and always a pleasure to communicate with you and others on this web-site.
You are quite correct; an algae-free aquarium is a myth. When we have live plants, we are concerned to keep algae minimal because it can kill plant leaves as it increases, smothering the leaf and eventually the plant. I have algae in all my tanks. The brush is the only one I target, as it can do the most damage. I have algae-eating fish, more because I like them as fish, but they do deal with common green algae. Otos and Whiptails in one, Farlowella vittata in two others. In the other tanks, snails deal with this.
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