Good suggestions from prevous responders, so I'll just follow-up on a couple of things.
First, the heater. A 100w heater is probably overkill on a 10g tank; I would see if you can exchange it for a 50w heater. Most stores will do this; after all, they want your continued business. Heaters have a thermostat mechanism and you can set it; some have numbers, others just a dial, so some experimentation is required to get it at the right setting. Start with a lower setting and work up, not the other way; at this time of year the room will not be cold enought to cause any problem until the heater is set. In a normal community aquarium you want it around 77-78 F. Make the adjustments slowly, waiting an hour or two between to allow the heater to set itself. The pilot light is on when the heater is operating, and off when it is not. If it is constantly on, and the water is warmer than 78F, turn the nob down slightly and wait an hour; then again if needed, until you get it adjusted.
Incadescent lights do give off considerably more heat, and fluorescent would be good. However, that's an expense you may not want to undertake, so consider getting the compact fluorescent screw-in bulbs instead of regular incadescent bulbs. The CF give very little heat, and more light for less wattage, and use less power to do it; benefits all round. And yes, the light must be off at night. Fish don't need light at all, it is there only for your viewing (and to grow plants if that is wanted). But a reguar schedule is best, wth at least 10 hours of total darkness. Leaving lights on continually will severely stress the fish, leading to outbreaks of ich and other health problems.
The liquid test kits are more accurate, but at this stage I wouldn't worry about the kit you have; it will work for your purposes. But when its used up, next time get a liquid one.