Coralife 6700K T-5 High Output Fluorescent Lamp is the light that I'm using. Last time we talked it was determined that the light was on to long so i turned it down to only being on for 8 hours a day.
I'm remembering this issue now. I wouldn't reduce the light yet. You had initially asked what the fluff was, but it doesn't seem bad; I get similar in the moss on the tops of my standing wood as it is nearest to the light. Floating plants help with this.
I've been using root tabs since the tank was set up. (earlier last year) and the amazon sword still turns brown. They are a beautiful plant but I'm debating chucking it...I just can't seem to get it to grow. Which is weird because YEARS ago when I had a fancy guppy tank the amazon sword got so big it took over the tank.
This happens. I have E. bleherae in three tanks, and only in one (the one with the Flourite) is it like this. In the other two it is lush and green, with flower stalks galore. It is a nutrient issue obviously, but I can't as yet pin it down. Last week I tore this tank down, replacing the Flourite with sand, and added a root tab plus of course the Flourish Comp, so I will see if it improves.
Previously I thought we determined my GH was to high ( I was supplementing with Equilibrium every time I did a water change.) I've stopped supplementing and the GH is coming back down to a more normal level. From what I've read online it should be no higher then 10DH (is that 10 drops?) I will continue to test GH with every water change and determine, based on the number, if I need to start putting Equilibrium in it again. Is each drop equivalent to 1 DH? I've read online that it should be between 5 and 10 DH for most fish. Is that correct?
You are correct. My tap water only takes 3-4 drops to make the color turn green on the GH test.
If it takes 3 drops, that is 3 dGH, and 4 drops is 4 dGH. That is not bad for the tap water, but back before it was near-zero (less than 1 dGH) I thought?
Anyway, yes, I agree to let it lower. The soft water fish will be fine no matter how low it goes; it is only the plants, and 4 dGH is about as low as you want for them.
I don't use excel. I was at first but I stopped after we discussed changing to flourish complete.
I thought Excel was mentioned earlier... I may just be mixing up threads again.:roll:
Right now I do a 50% water change weekly. AFter the change I put a cap of flourish complete in it. 3 days later I put another cap. I also suppliment with the root tabs every 3-4 month's. Other then that I have a sponge filter hooked to a bubbler and that's it.
If the "bubbler" is just the sponge filter normally, fine; it it is some additional bubbling device, I would remove it. CO2 may well be driven out with too much disturbance. I've had no issues with sponge filters.
The root tabs should be no more than 3 months [Seachem says every 3 months], I was using them every two months and have just gone to three to see if it makes a difference. But I wouldn't go beyond 3. I have a list on the fish room shelf with the months listed when I add the tabs on the first water change of the month, so I don't forget. I also have to do filter rinsings every 2 months, and it all gets mixed up.;-)
You could delay the Flourish Comp to the day following a water change, if the conditioner is one that detoxifies heavy metals. Seachem said these will negate the traqce inerals in Flourish, so waiting a day eliminates this. I don't know if it makes that much difference, but I do it anyway. The the second dose 2-3 days after that.
Byron.