Adding plants during fish less cycling?

Byron

When the plants arrive, I would do a major water change; idea is to remove all ammonia, but whatever little is left after this, the plants will handle. I would also have some liquid fertilizer on hand to dose the tank the first day. Some say do this, others don't. I always do. Plants need nutrients, and in a new tank with no organics to create nutrients, I think it best to add some. I recommend Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Suplement as the best; it only takes a very small amount, for a 55g this would be 1/2 teaspoon once a week. Make sure it is Flourish Comprehensive, they make several different products under the "Flourish" name.

I always plant new tanks and add fish the same day I set it up, and I haven't lost anything yet. Ammonia and nitrite are zero, or at any rate undetectable with the API test. The plants handle it. There are also probably a lot of bacteria on the plants and wood, since I tend to move these from existing tanks, and bacteria will colonize all surfaces under water. I tend to advise others to go slow, to be safe. But I can set up a 115g aquarium with new filter/media and substrate in one day and have it running by the end of the day with 90+ fish in it. As long as you know what you're doing, this is easy.


The tank would be fish-ready and they would be fine, as explained in the two previous responses. The "established" takes time regardless. In any "new" tank the biology has to sort itself out, and as I mentioned earlier many factors influence this, from the water params, number and type of fish, number and type of plants, substrate and decor, filtration, light, fish food, etc. During the initial break-in towards establishment, there will be some fluctuation in water conditions, and there are some fish that do not adjust to this, so we wait before adding those.

Thank you. We all learn from asking; I am still learning after 20 years of fish. I learn from others on this forum and research; in life we never stop learning.

Byron.

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Byron: Thanks for the information...EXCELLENT! I have one question, that may be tough to answer: I'm about to get some plants for the 55....HOW MANY plants would I need to maintain a biologically balanced tank? I would think that's a tough question...I think it would be the product of species and size. That being said, can I use my intuitive notion, and looking at the planted tank say "Yes, that looks like the density of plants isn't too great." On the other side of that coin, I think it would be possible to overstock with plants. In that situation you could look at the fish and see they have no room to swim. Are there any pictures on line that would show what a good, healthy planted tank looks like?
Thanks again
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Byron

Well, look at the photos under "Aquariums" below my name on the left.

You partly answered your own question; the number of plants does depend upon what they are. I tend to put in more than will be needed later, and then remove some later (to other tanks). I like substrate-rooted plants because you plant them and that's it, they grow without any fussing. Swords are perfect for this; Vallisneria esp the Corkscrew Vallisneria, Pygmy chain sword, crypts (though fussy with water fluctuations), and some others as accent.

Stem plants need regular trimming, some more than others, and higher light, so i shy away from most. Brazilian Pennywort though is a marvel; I bought one small cluster of 3-4 stems 2 years ago, and it took a while but once it settled and started to grow, wow. Since then I have tossed out enough to plant dozens of tanks. It is great floating.

Fish swimming room has to be considered; know what fish you intend, then buy plants accordingly. Click the shaded names above to see the plant profile, and browse the others for ideas.

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Thanks Byron: I'll get some of the species you recommend...In about a week or so, I'll post a new thread and discuss how the process of planting and adding fish went.

Thanks again for all your help
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