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Tankmates for Gouramis

This is a discussion on Tankmates for Gouramis within the Anabantids forums, part of the Freshwater and Tropical Fish category; --> As long as the water was pretty close it would not cause the ick. I don't use a themometer for my water changes and ...

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Tankmates for Gouramis
Old 11-30-2011, 02:35 PM   #21
 
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As long as the water was pretty close it would not cause the ick. I don't use a themometer for my water changes and have never had an outbreak of ick from it. Ick is a parasite that fish often have when they are purchased from the stores and is not caused by water changes. You can read more about it here:
Information about Ich (Also known as White Spot Disease)

Last edited by Calmwaters; 11-30-2011 at 02:38 PM..
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:43 PM   #22
 
thank you i will for sure read this, but yes I called the pet store because of our the fish that died we had bought from them. That is when they told me about the water being different temperatures can cause ick, we did feel it by hand but not with a thermometer and to us it felt close. But my Dwarf does seem to have white spots on him this morning which he did not have before the weekend.
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:01 PM   #23
 
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I think the fish store is just trying to place the blame on you instead of them.
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:21 PM   #24
 
yes I believe you are right we had got a two fish there on Saturday, I read the link that you sent me and I really don't see how the temperature of the water can produce a parasite. Also do you know how long it would take if the fish I purchased on Saturday had Ick to appear on the other fish. I did not see anything about that in the blog.
Thank you
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:38 PM   #25
 
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Within 48 hours. Heres another good article on causes:
What Are the Causes of Ick in Fish? | eHow.com
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:52 PM   #26
 
That would make sense cause fish starting dying last night and we put the new ones from the pet store in on Saturday night. I am going to buying a testing kit also to test our water. We have a 55 gallon, what levels should everything be at? I suggested to the pet store that the fish we got from them may have already been infected due to the fact that everything was fine till we put their fish in tank and by the next day that is when we noticed things were not right, they are not being to helpful to me and insist it was the water change
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:16 PM   #27
 
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Unfortunatly that happens alot at pet stores exspecially the big box stores. Ammonia should be 0, Nitrite-0 and Nitrate-less than 20. Most of us on here use the API master kit, its a liguid drop kit and it is reliable. It will also test you ph so you can know what it is.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:38 PM   #28
 
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Everything must be kept in perspective.

Many fish carry ich though spots may not ever be seen. Ich first attacks the gills--which is why you see the fish "flashing," which is the term we use when the fish will scrape itself in the gill region against a leaf, wood, rock or sometimes the substrate in an attempt to dislodge the parasite. Fish build up an immunity by producing more natural slime which the parasite cannot get through normally, but the gills remain vulnerable. However, if the fish is weakened by stress, the parasite has a better chance. New fish from stores are obviously highly stressed, and if they are carrying ich it will usually increase.

Any stress-inducing factor can cause an outbreak of ich. And a sudden and significant drop in temperature is one of these. But it has to be pretty severe. If the heater failed during a winter night for instance, and the tank temp lowered from say 77 to 65F, ich would likely appear. If just one parasite is in the tank (due to the gill issue above), that is all it takes because the sudden temp decrease has weakened the fish. But a relatively minor fluctuation will not do this. I deliberately lower the water temp during a water change, sometimes up to 4 or 5 F degrees to stimulate the fish. The store is grasping on a part-truth as an excuse, or perhaps just not knowing better, to give them the benefit of the doubt.

It is more likely that any rise in ammonia or nitrite during a cycle will cause an ich outbreak in new fish, again because the toxicity weakens the fish and they are more susceptible. I have recently had a couple fairly minor outbreaks with new fish, solely due to the stress of netting/bagging/transport/new environment. This is where a QT is useful; isolating the fish for a couple weeks (it can take more than a week to appear as visible spots) allows quick treatment without messing up the main tank. I must confess I do not always QT. But I also don't always have ich with or without QT.

Byron.
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