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Dwarf Gourami in a Community Tank??

7K views 21 replies 2 participants last post by  Byron 
#1 ·
I have a 55 gallon Community tank with mollies and a platy. I am looking to introduce some new fish in the next couple of weeks. Will a Dwarf Gourami do well in the tank? If so, how many do I need I need?
 
#2 ·
A gourami would not be my choice to mix with livebearers. And the dwarf gourami carries some concerns anyway, check the profile for more on that. [Click the shaded name, it will link to our profile.]

In a 55g, some more suitable companions for livebearers would be some of the rainbowfish. Three species are in our propfiles, two of which are possibles: Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish and Boeseman Rainbowfish. Click names for those profiles with photos.

Other options are more livebearers, perhaps some swordtails (you have the space)?

Byron.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thank you, Byron. In my tank I have 3 balloon mollies, 2 dalmatian mollies, and a red wag platy. I am not sure that I like any of the above named fish.. I am looking for something with a little more color and a different body shape that the "goldfish body". Is it possible to maybe put tetras in? I am not worried about the babies from my livebearers (not really looking to keep any right now).
 
#4 ·
What are your tap water parameters, meaning here the GH (general hardness) and pH? And is the tank pH the same (or close)?

I had assumed before with livebearers that you probably had moderately hard water with a basic (above 7) pH, as would suit them, so I was thinking along those lines. Most tetra are the opposite, doing best in softer water, though there are some exceptions. When I know your GH and pH I can offer suggestions.

Byron.
 
#5 ·
Here are the readings for my tap: pH 6.4, KH around 60, TH 120, NO2 & NO3-0, Ammonia is .25 and the readings for my tank this morning are pH 7.2, KH 60, TH 120, NO2 0, NO3 5, Ammonia 0. Yesterdays readings were a little different- pH- 6.8-7.0, KH -60, TH 120, NO2- .20, NO3 - 0-5, and ammonia is at .25
 
#6 ·
This is a bit tricky. Your water is soft (120 = 6-7 dGH), generally on the acidic side though if the tap is 6.4 I would wonder why the tank is rising to 7 and 7.2. Is there any calcareous gravel/sand in the substrate, or any shells, coral or calcareous rock?

To the fish, your molly are going to struggle in this soft and acidic water. Once we find what is raising the pH, if anything, and deal with that, you are well suited for soft water fish.

Byron.
 
#8 ·
Not knowing what that gravel is made of..don't suppose you still have the bag or any data? Or can you find it online so we can see the composition?

Another thought occurs to me, and that is your pH testing. These tests should always be done at approximately the same time of day because there is a diurnal pH fluctuation and taking the test in the early morning can give different results from early evening. Also, try to use daylight (not direct sunlight) to read the colour, because all artificial light has a different spectrum and the colours on the card and in the test vial may appear different under different light.

Byron.
 
#10 ·
I am sorry it is Aztec Bronze here is the link to my gravels: Petco Aztec Bronze Aquarium Gravel at PETCO

Also, I test every morning around 8:00-8:30 in my kitchen near the sink under the window (so I don't spill fish water on my carpet LOL).
That gravel should be OK, it says it is inert.

So, back to the soft water and (probably) slightly acidic pH. You are wide open for many tetra. Have a look at our profiles, (tetras are in the characins section)many species with photos are included. The compatibility section mentions issues if any. You don't want to combine active with sedate fish, for instance. And a few of them can get a bit nasty.

I would do something about the mollies though; these are hard water fish that do not do well in soft water long-term.

Byron.
 
#11 ·
What do you recommend doing with them? I love my babies and do not want to have to take them back :( is there anything I can do for the water (no chemicals)? If I added tetras, how many do you think would fit? I am looking for 10+ :) I love an active tank!

Also, what other fish can go in there? I am wandering if I can add strebai cory? I read they only get to 4 inches, I am going to do more research on those, before I make my decision. I just want to get some advice before I go for it.
 
#12 ·
What do you recommend doing with them? I love my babies and do not want to have to take them back :( is there anything I can do for the water (no chemicals)? If I added tetras, how many do you think would fit? I am looking for 10+ :) I love an active tank!

Also, what other fish can go in there? I am wandering if I can add strebai cory? I read they only get to 4 inches, I am going to do more research on those, before I make my decision. I just want to get some advice before I go for it.

In a 55g you could have several groups of different tetra, provided they are compatible. I would go for groups of maybe 7 to 12/15, depending upon the species, some are best with more. Three or four or even five species, again depending on what they are. And substrate fish are fine, perhaps a group of corys, no less than five of a species, and you can mix any. Corydoras sterbai are nice; where did you read 4 inches? Three inches is max, and usually in aquaria they are around 2-2.5 inches. Use our profiles for this data.

I would myself not keep livebearers esp mollies in soft water. If you have another tank, it is easy to harden water, easier than the reverse. A substrate of aragonite sand or gravel is easiest.
 
#13 ·
I cannot find where I found the Sterbai Cory at; it was a fish store online. As far as housing fish, I have heard 1 gallon per inch of adult fish. Is this something you recommend as well? I do not want to overcrowd them and I do not mind if it is understocked, as long as they are all happy and healthy.
 
#14 ·
It so happens I posted on this same topic just the other day; I'll copy that over, but first to answer your question on that "rule," it is useful as a guide for beginning aquarists who may be inclined to put too many fish in their tank without considering the mature size and compatibility issues that I will elaborate on in the quoted post. But there is much more. Here are my previous comments.

One thing we have to learn as aquarists is just what determines the number of fish we can have in a given tank. The bioload is obviously important, and yes, live plants help a lot with this. And so do regular partial water changes. But this is only one aspect.

The species of fish and their behaviours is of paramount importance. This is why I harp so much in threads about compatibility--but true compatibility. Fish that share the same specific requirements such as water parameters, water current from the filter, plants/wood/rock as cover or to break up territories, etc. will manage together better than those that do not. And then we come to numbers and behaviours. Shoaling fish need a group, and the more the better, and this actually helps the bioload because the fish will be less stressed so they will have less of an impact on the biology in the tank. If they are compatible in terms of their behaviours, they will be less stressed and this again impacts the biology. Fish that are forever nipping one another are sending out allomones (from species to species) and pheromones (within a species) that are chemical signals the other fish read and this can stress them further, negatively impacting the biological system.

Heiko Bleher has written about displays he has set up replicating natural biotopes in South America and elsewhere. The numbers of fish he puts in these tanks would astonish most aquarists. But it works, because the fish are truly compatible and are in their natural expected environment.

The above is from this thread if you want to follow all of it:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...t-55-gallon-planted-stocking-bolivian-120140/

Byron.
 
#15 ·
You were talking about my mollies not doing so well long term in my water, it is possible for them to show signs as soon as two months? I bought a silver lyre tail molly, Dip, in November. She has done great until today. She is staying on the bottom with labored breathing, and her tail is turned to the side. Should I watch her close, or should I move her into a breeding net on the side of the tank? She is one of my favorite and I don't want to lose her! :(
 
#16 ·
I am not a trained biologist, but in my completely honest opinion, yes, the soft water might well be the cause, or at the very least a contributor. Not having the essential minerals necessary for proper functioning of the fish's physiology not only weakens those organs and such, but adds stress, and stress weakens the fish even more so it is more suscpetible to disease. So yes, this is in my view all related.

I would get some calcareous sand or gravel for the substrate and set up a smaller tank for the mollies. A 20g long would be about minimum for 3 or 4. CarribSea make aragonite sand and gravel substrates, and just one bag would fill a 20g long tank. The 20g long is so-called because it is 30 inches long, whereas the "normal" 20g tank is 24 inches, and normally called a 20g high to differentiate.

Diagnosing fish ailments is not at all easy for most of us. There are so many factors. But prevention is the best, and part of this is providing as near-ideal watger as we can.

Byron.
 
#17 ·
I moved her to my 10 gal QT and added a little salt. She is swimming around as happy as she can be. Thank you for your help!!

I am still looking at the Tetras and the Corys, trying to figure out which ones I will add to the big tank. I will post those and see what you think when I make my decision. :)
 
#18 ·
I moved her to my 10 gal QT and added a little salt. She is swimming around as happy as she can be. Thank you for your help!!

I am still looking at the Tetras and the Corys, trying to figure out which ones I will add to the big tank. I will post those and see what you think when I make my decision. :)
Salt will help mollies, but you still need the other minerals so this too is only a short-term solution.
 
#19 ·
I understand completely! It was a fix until I can get them into the right water. i have a 20 gal tall (free) that is empty right now and is getting cycled for them.

As for the 55 gallon, I think I have found some fish I really like and would fit in my water range (I think). First is Bleeding heart tetras (maybe 7), Cochu (maybe 7 of these as well), Lemon Tetra (7 of those), and finally the Bandit Cory (4 or 5 of these). What do you think?
 
#20 · (Edited)
I understand completely! It was a fix until I can get them into the right water. i have a 20 gal tall (free) that is empty right now and is getting cycled for them.

As for the 55 gallon, I think I have found some fish I really like and would fit in my water range (I think). First is Bleeding heart tetras (maybe 7), Cochu (maybe 7 of these as well), Lemon Tetra (7 of those), and finally the Bandit Cory (4 or 5 of these). What do you think?
Sounds generally fine for both tanks. I'm assuming the 20g molly tank has a calcareous substrate, that will be good.

And the 55g combo is fine, though with a couple of reservations. First, I would increase the corys up to 12-15, this can be different species with 4-5 of each. But any and all corys will always be in better health the more there are, whatever species. And second, be careful of the Cochu Tetra. This is a feisty little fish, very active, and must have a good number. I had to get rid of mine, they harassed the other tetra too much. You will not want any sedate fish in with these, should that be considered down the road. And they are sometimes nasty with other tetra, as I noted. A better but very similar coloured fish would be the Kerri Tetra. They are active, but much more peaceful. I had a group of 10 or so many years ago, very nice fish.

Byron.
 
#21 ·
Thank you for the info on the Cochu! I do not want to add to any stress! I do have a question though; is the number of fish you listed ok for a 55 gallon? I understand that the happier and healthier they are the less bio load and stress, but it still seems like I would be pushing it to add so many fish.
 
#22 ·
Thank you for the info on the Cochu! I do not want to add to any stress! I do have a question though; is the number of fish you listed ok for a 55 gallon? I understand that the happier and healthier they are the less bio load and stress, but it still seems like I would be pushing it to add so many fish.
In a 4-foot 55g tank, and keeping in mind the sort of fish we are discussing here, being smallish tetra and corys, I myself would not hesitate to have up to 100 in this tank. Again, assuming well planted, and weekly 50% water changes. Compatibility in all its aspects is the key.

Byron.
 
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