What typically causes brown slime on artificial plants? - Page 3
Tropical Fish

Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources » Freshwater Fish and Aquariums » Advanced Freshwater Discussion » What typically causes brown slime on artificial plants?

What typically causes brown slime on artificial plants?

This is a discussion on What typically causes brown slime on artificial plants? within the Advanced Freshwater Discussion forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> why would you raise the temperature ? you could get some really tough plants like java fern and anubias, ... there are a few ...

Check out these freshwater fish profiles
Rainbow Shark
Rainbow Shark
Black Neon Tetra
Black Neon Tetra
Like Tree17Likes

Reply
LinkBack Thread Tools vBmenu Seperating Image Search this Thread vBmenu Seperating Image
What typically causes brown slime on artificial plants?
Old 11-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #21
 
why would you raise the temperature ?
you could get some really tough plants like java fern and anubias, ... there are a few others that are resistant to goldfish, ... and those will eat pretty much anything

plecoworld.com or planetpleco.com (if i remember the websites by heart - both sites) have lists of pleco's, ... you could look for your pleco there and see what it's habits and diet consists of to see if you have anything to worry about.
Flear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 09:27 AM   #22
 
Agent13's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclesnipas View Post
Live plants love nitrates huh? Iv toyed with the idea of going live rather than artificial however im concerned my Royal Pleco will make salad out of whatever I put in. Also my other concern is heating the water to 86 degrees. Im under the impression that corys are sensitive to high temperatures no? Are there any others in my tank I need to worry about?
The corys will be fine. They don't want to live long term in that but a 2 week ich heat treatment is perfectly ok. I've even done it with my corys. Everyone in the tank will be ok at 86f. I have 9 tanks with a gazzillion different species of fish and there is not 1 tank I wouldn't treat for Ich with heat for 2 weeks. And I have if not the same..at least a VERY close relative to everything you have in there. Don't worry.
BTW, how is the Ich looking today? improvement?
Chesh likes this.
Agent13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 10:42 AM   #23
 
my bad, i overlooked the ick treatment as the reason for raising the tempurature

i've also heard to add salt that causes the Ick to die.

i've had more success doing that then any medication treatment
Flear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 07:34 PM   #24
 
Ok so I just dosed my last treatment with the Para Shield. The Ich is still present though def less than yesterday. Im thinking even if it goes away visually, I will do a larger water change, restock the filters and raise the temperature anyway just to be safe and make sure its out of the tank as well. Even if its only for a week. Also I just wanna point out that NONE of the aquarium stores suggested Cyano-Bacteria as a possible culprit for the slime on my plants. This is why I love this forum so much! Thanks All!!!
cyclesnipas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #25
 
And I always love advice that doesnt have me running out and buying half meds from the aquarium store! lol Thanks again!
Chesh and Agent13 like this.
cyclesnipas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #26
 
Agent13's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclesnipas View Post
Ok so I just dosed my last treatment with the Para Shield. The Ich is still present though def less than yesterday. Im thinking even if it goes away visually, I will do a larger water change, restock the filters and raise the temperature anyway just to be safe and make sure its out of the tank as well. Even if its only for a week. Also I just wanna point out that NONE of the aquarium stores suggested Cyano-Bacteria as a possible culprit for the slime on my plants. This is why I love this forum so much! Thanks All!!!
This is why we have this forum lol. I have had only one fatasmic large chain petstore fish guy ever and he would have to tell me to not tell his boss the suggestions he gave me lol.(he moved in september and I miss him ). But in all fairness they are there for a job even if they don't know about fish at least they have a job .
Your plan sounds fine..in fact a good idea really. Try doing at least 1 1/2 weeks though with the heat to be more sure. I understand after the meds you don't want to deal with this much more but at least this way you just raise the heat and watch them..not too much effort or $, right?

And you are very welcome. I'm sure down the line you're experience will help others. Keep us updated.
Chesh likes this.
Agent13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 01:36 PM   #27
 
Posted via Mobile Device
cyclesnipas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 01:41 PM   #28
 
Ok now im getting agravated. This morning I turn on the light to find one of my cardinals has "vanished" I can only assume he passed overnight from the ich and is in one of the plants somewhere or the pleco got him. The ich is still present even after full treatment so that was a big-ol waste of time so tonight water change and temperature raise for sure. Just hope i dont come home to anymore dead or missing fish.?
Posted via Mobile Device
cyclesnipas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 01:59 PM   #29
 
the 'natural' remedy i heard said add aquarium salt (not marine aquarium)
i dont' recall how much salt.

from what i remember of the reasoning was fairly simple
raising the temperature increases the metabolism of the ick

there is a stage after eggs are laid that the eggs are impervious to anything, no medications will touch them
raising the temperature causes the eggs to mature faster, after they hatch then they're vulnerable, ... then they search for our fish and we get to see the distinctive white spots :(

i've had ick in my tank 2x, i resolved it both times with this

add salt (look up online to find out what the recommended amount is, ... i think it's one tbsp per 5 gallons, ... i have heard some plants don't like this, i didn't notice any suffering in my plants, ... doesn't mean anything, i only have a small variety of plants.

the salt is supposed to cause the ick parasite to die, the temperature increase causes the metabolism to work faster so they hatch sooner, and the salt is supposed to cause them to die.

if your only raising your temperatures, ... then ... the ick parasites hatch sooner, find a fish, have eggs, the egg sacks fall to the bottom of the tank, the eggs hatch sooner, ... and your compounding your problem instead of solving it.
Flear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 02:31 PM   #30
 
Agent13's Avatar
 
Actually the heat alone is effective. It does speed up the life cycle and once it's to the free swimming stage it's not tolerant of 86f and dies. There is a heat resistant strain(I haven't dealt with that ever though) from what I have heard that strain is better dealt with at 88f. The salt isn't necessary as the heat alone will kill it.. I've used this method as well as many others very successfully and with 0 fish loss. However if you feel you need a back up plan to assist the heat then salt would be the only thing I'd consider.. but still I prefer not to over stress the fish with multiple treatments.


Sorry you lost a cardinal, cyclesnipas.
Agent13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
brown coloring on artificial plants? mileshs95 Freshwater and Tropical Fish 7 11-03-2011 05:05 PM
Brown slime on coral??? klosxe Coral and Reef Creatures 7 04-11-2009 06:01 PM
brown slime beetlebz Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 8 11-01-2007 11:26 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:28 AM.