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Removed my UGF and all my rocks 4-5 weeks ago.... tank is still cycling... help

This is a discussion on Removed my UGF and all my rocks 4-5 weeks ago.... tank is still cycling... help within the Advanced Freshwater Discussion forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> maybe i started skimming over things, i didn't see any heated debate, just different ideas i've got a relatively small 29 gallon tank, an ...

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Removed my UGF and all my rocks 4-5 weeks ago.... tank is still cycling... help
Old 11-01-2013, 11:02 AM   #41
 
maybe i started skimming over things, i didn't see any heated debate, just different ideas

i've got a relatively small 29 gallon tank, an HOB filter, (only foam blocks, replaced everything else) just for surface area, i could possibly want to use rock wool which would have even higher surface area. other then that, the foam block on the front (prevents fish from getting trapped) is the only real mechanical filter (only place that accumulates crud). the only gain substrate has on better/greater bacteria for processing the nitrogen cycle is surface area, ... as has been mentioned, if your using gravel, depending on your filter system it may have a higher surface area (and in turn more bacterial culture) if your using sand, then the substrate will always have a higher surface area), if it's not cleaned, even higher surface area in your substrate, ... but the good bacteria isn't only in the substrate, it's on every surface in the aquarium.

i've heard mention that some of this beneficial bacteria for the nitrogen cycle does it's job in the dark, so that's something else to look into, ... inside most filter systems it's dark, so this isn't going to impact most filter systems, it's also only something i've heard once, so it's only a curiosity at the moment and not something i have to rethink my tank around

heavily planted, the substrate is bound with roots i'd rather not disturb, detritus & mulm have saturated the substrate, i have NEVER cleaned it. i don't prune the plants till they are surfacing.

last water change was months ago.

---

my tank goes against common practices in the hobby. and it's successful.

everyone's tanks are different, ... and for the most part, everyone experiences success to one degree or another, so what works, ... well what works is more than we think, and far more than we practice.

personally, if your getting readings 4-8, and your fish are healthy, your readings are wrong, time for a different test kit, and/or different lighting ... or ditch the test kit all-together, your fish are healthy, who cares what the test kit says, ... if your fish are not healthy, pull out the test kit, ... but an accurate one so you can figure things out and work on a solution.
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:20 AM   #42
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent13 View Post
Candyman
I really tried to help you and gave fantastic advice and did my best to stay on track no matter how much blame you wanted to throw on your filter, old methods vs new and wherever else you were loosely flinging blame . However here is where nobody can really help you when you give us only half the story.
You have done MAJOR tinkering with this tank since September and also have been battling sick fish in there for a while you yourself realized and I quote you here about a barb in that tank "From what I gathered online it is most likely Hemorrhagic septicemia so I decided to get some API Tripple Sulfa and some aquarium salt and see if that works". Then after this you say this fish looked like it was having internal bleeding for a year. You dumped salt and meds in there killing you cycle instead of QTing the fish. I'll note you still had you're fabulous UGF at that time.
You medicated and salted your tank around~9/21/13
Removed your substrate and UGF around ~9/28/13
Then added a Your home made Co2 system ~10/1/13

All of this could have seriously shortened the process of helping you if we knew this. Our advice is only as good as the accuracy of the information we are given. You have created havoc on your tank and you can't go comparing UGFs to HOBs based on your experience since the Ammonia no doubt is from killing you're cycle with your rash whole tank treatment.. and really unadvisable to medicate your whole tank, salt your tank, Change your whole setup(new substrate and removing a filter) and add a Co2 reactor system(homemade or not) within 1 week.
Yes, this is pretty common - people omit what are often the most important details because they don't understand why they are important.

Too, I'd like to point out that since you've just recently gotten your 55 gallon under control, its likely to not be suitable for transferring media just yet.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:22 PM   #43
 
Just a little update.. FINALLY my ammonia is going down and my nitrites are showing now.

I checked the water today and ammonia is now at 2ppm, and my nitrites are .50 to 1.0ppm. Man this only took 5 weeks !!! Hopefully the nitrite cycle doesn't take long to go away.. Geesh what a pain this transition has been..
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Last edited by candymancan; 11-02-2013 at 12:30 PM..
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:38 PM   #44
 
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Glad things are looking up over there - fingers crossed that this trend continues!
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:39 AM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by candymancan View Post
Just a little update.. FINALLY my ammonia is going down and my nitrites are showing now.

I checked the water today and ammonia is now at 2ppm, and my nitrites are .50 to 1.0ppm. Man this only took 5 weeks !!! Hopefully the nitrite cycle doesn't take long to go away.. Geesh what a pain this transition has been..
Glad to hear. don't add food until nitrItes drop down. then can peg the kit for a day or so.

my .02

Last edited by beaslbob; 11-03-2013 at 08:57 AM..
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Old 11-03-2013, 09:20 AM   #46
 
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I do agree - feeding only makes maintaining the water quality that much more difficult so feed sparingly or even not at all.
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:47 PM   #47
 
Nitrites are now 5PPM (probly higher) and ammonia is still 2ppm... Getting ready to change half the water...
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:39 AM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by candymancan View Post
Nitrites are now 5PPM (probly higher) and ammonia is still 2ppm... Getting ready to change half the water...
Yep you pegged the API test kit.

Don't add food untill they drop down. Which should be a few days or so.


(no need for water change, nitrItes will drop down without)

my .02
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:24 PM   #49
 
Nitrites are more toxic then ammonia. Im using prime but id like to keep them down trying to do this with no fish dying and so none have..

What do you mean i pegged the test kit ?

Ammonia is now 1ppm. Going down.. But pretty slowely.. I just found my watersprite was dead i suspected it was but it was green sorta.. Jist took it out and the roots were rottin and stems brittle.. I bet that wasnt helping lol
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:49 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by candymancan View Post
Nitrites are more toxic then ammonia. Im using prime but id like to keep them down trying to do this with no fish dying and so none have..

What do you mean i pegged the test kit ?
As I remember the api test kit (and others) had a max reading of 5ppm. But that was some time ago.
Quote:

Ammonia is now 1ppm. Going down.. But pretty slowely.. I just found my watersprite was dead i suspected it was but it was green sorta.. Jist took it out and the roots were rottin and stems brittle.. I bet that wasnt helping lol
some plants will doe off IME. that is the reason I use a mix of fast and slow growing plants.

my .02
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