Planted tank with Bean Animal style overflow
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Planted tank with Bean Animal style overflow

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Planted tank with Bean Animal style overflow
Old 05-11-2014, 02:19 PM   #1
 
Question Planted tank with Bean Animal style overflow

Living in Sulawesi, Indonesia I'm in the planning stage for an approximate 300 gallon square aquarium with a square overflow in the center of the tank. I settled on the style so that all sides can be viewed and can be set up differently with plants and open space. It will also give a full 2 meters length of weir hopefully keeping the "waterfall" noise down.

I am able to use a very large semi in-ground tiled concrete and glass external sump with plumbing running under the floor inside. I would run fans on the sump to keep the water temperature down here in the tropics and I can set up an automatic water level system running well water into the sump.

I've decided to use the BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System style overflow plumbing for quiet operation and fail safe peace of mind when I am away at work. The image below shows the basic layout of the tank and plumbing.



The tank is 1.5 meters square with the overflow 50 centimeters square. The overflow is 55 centimeters deep while the outer tank has 60 centimeter high panels. The three 1 1/2 inch standpipes form the Bean Animal overflow while there are two 3/4 inlets splitting into a total of four 1/2 inch bulkheads. The tank side of the inlet bulkheads will be fitted with Loc-Line inlets so that they can be individually directed for flow.



The above image shows the layout of the standpipes. The one on the right is the full siphon with the one on the left acting as the open channel while the one in the middle is the emergency drain in case of blockage. I plan to set the water level in the overflow so that the open channel runs about half full provided that the flow is quiet at that level. That will be about 1 1/2 inches down from the top of the weir. It would be nice to run it a little higher so that the water flow over the weir into the overflow might be laminar and noiseless but I'm not sure how high I could safely go. I might just have to buy some extra pipe and male adapters and experiment a bit.

All of the standpipes will use the flat pancake style of strainer to keep out fish and to minimize any vortex action which would introduce air into the siphon and create noise.

The full siphon is set a bit lower than the open channel so that it has more chance to start a siphon before the water level goes too far over the top of the toothless weir. The lower level of this means that if there is a power outage the water in the overflow will drop a little more but my sump will be larger in capacity than the tank so no problem there. Once the water reaches the height of the weir the open channel breather tube will be shut so that it can form a full siphon and the emergency is just barely higher than the weir.

The problem is that I have never used this type of overflow set-up before and nobody else has a write-up on the web showing anything like my planned build.

If anybody can see any dumb mistakes in the design please let me know so that I can make alterations in the design before ordering all of the equipment as a lot of this stuff needs to be imported.
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:17 AM   #2
 
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Welcome to TFK! This is a fascinating design. Extremely advanced beyond most aquarists in design. I use a durso standpipe in my overflow of my 90 gallon tank that my husband made. That is to reduce the sucking noise the built in overflow would create. I can ask my husband if he would look at this design. He may have an idea about it. I look forward to your progress.
My only concern would be there is no way to cover this tank, which could lead to fish jumping out.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:12 AM   #3
 
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I am also curious what your ideas are for lighting this tank? Obviously a hanging style lighting system?
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:18 AM   #4
 
Thanks for your kind comments. This is not actually my ideal tank. I would have one of the infinity edge tanks in a heartbeat but the system for drainage would probably be too difficult to build out here.

I didn't plan to build an unusual tank but with my work taking me away from home for up to two months at a time having the extra water capacity to keep parameters more stable and the ease of water changes with a huge sump allows me leeway.

On jumpers I have been very lucky so far with my smaller tanks. An open twenty gallon has provided my only loss to this when a newish Pakistani Loach decided the grass was greener on the other side of the glass. None of my other fish have ever made the leap. I'm hoping to be lucky with this tank as well but there is the option to build a cover with 8 separate square panels if I put supports in the corners of the overflow. The only thing then would be to source monofilament mesh for the panels.

This will be a long term build as getting Starphire glass for the outer ring, the large base and then smoked glass for the overflow panels is an import job which can take some time. Two return pumps (for redundancy) will also need to be sourced outside as the locally available types are generally smallerl capacity and usually cheap Chinese types. There are some pond pumps available but I don't know how long they last under continuous service. Bulkheads and street elbows will need to be on the same list.

Another headache is building a conduit under the floor for the plumbing to the sump. I'm currently looking at using 10 inch PVC and probably going with flexible pies through that to the outside. I have to think about rat proofing on the outside end as well because there are some big ones here with mostly open storm drains. I once tried expanded aluminum mesh normally used on a satellite TV antenna to block them but they chewed right through two layers of that.

The big advantages that I have here are cheap labor costs and very cheap plants and fish. My LFS provides about 8 different types of Sulawesi shrimp and several types of indigenous plants to the country's capital and he lets me have first dibs at crazy low prices.

My biggest technical concern with the build is that the overflow works properly and keeps the water depth as close as possible to the weir height without making a lot of noise. It would be nice not to have the tops of the standpipes visible but I can't see any way of doing this without having the water fall a lot further down the overflow and making a lot of noise in the process. I've seen some Bean Animal overflows that don't use tees opting for two elbows instead so if the "waterfall" is quiet enough then that may be an option.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:30 AM   #5
 
Lighting will be a ceiling mounted hanging system with eight square heatsinks, each with a silent type cooling fan. I look at the shape of the aquarium as being pretty much like 8 50 centimeter cubes and will cluster the LEDs accordingly. A square frame of aluminum angles will tie them all together allowing just four hanging points. I'm also considering putting in cross beams to the middle of each side of the square allowing a mount point for the LED DC drivers. The 48V power supplies will feed into the drivers from up in the ceiling or maybe from a ceiling mounted ladder frame.

Clustering the LEDs close together should give good shimmer, especially with the four inlets angled to give surface agitation.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:56 AM   #6
 
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How do you get any sleep with such a mind working overtime? So fascinating and intriguing. I cannot wait to see it set up and wish you the best at finding the answers you seek. It may be out of the husband's league as well. While he is a smart guy, he has not been active in any projects like this in ages. Too busy with our business....
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:00 AM   #7
 
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More questions I have if you don't mind~ What will you be utilizing for filtration? Poret foam? Ceramic rings? In the sump? Or more of a sandbed trickle type?
This thread is going to keep me riveted. Please keep us updated!

Last edited by keepsmiling; 05-12-2014 at 06:01 AM.. Reason: change
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:17 AM   #8
 
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Ok..my husband looked at this and while this is way beyond me this is what he said~ he says both the left and right pipes need to be about the same height, with the end extending down further. He also said the one on the right should also be vented like the one on the left. He said the 1.5" standpipe is going to handle a lot of water. He said otherwise you are going to see a constant rise and fall inside the overflow. Beats me, not sure if any of that makes sense, but hope it helps.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:21 AM   #9
 
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He also said none of this should be glued in place. So we are only talking about PVC here right? That is the inexpensive part of it anyway. Maybe give it a shot but keep in mind modifications may need to be made as it progresses.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:24 AM   #10
 
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Meanwhile....
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