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Keeping tanks - then and now

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Keeping tanks - then and now
Old 10-18-2013, 09:43 PM   #41
 
So, it is possible to keep these fish at that level? At least there is not too much difference between the aquarium and the tap water. I can barely see the difference in color.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:15 PM   #42
 
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Angels at that pH? Sure, been doing it for years, pulled a spawn from a pair of silver veils this morning, got a pair of hybrid blacks that are looking tubey & sparring a bit, so probably tomorrow for them.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:19 AM   #43
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easeltine View Post
I bought a ph Test Kit today and found that the aquarium ph is running at 7.2 and the tap water is running at 7.6 or above, (very blue).
Sounds like you're using the low range pH test to read pH of your tapwater that would more accurately be measured by the high range test....not that it makes much difference.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:29 AM   #44
 
Yes, it was the low range test kit. I just didn't realize I would get a reading like this.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:40 AM   #45
 
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Yes, it was the low range test kit. I just didn't realize I would get a reading like this.
If your tap water has a pH above 7.6 then the high range test kit is appropriate.

PH and other tank parameters IMHO are more a function of the tank environment and process then the amount of water changes. Unless you are doing very large daily changes.

that is especially true of pH where carbon dioxide is a determining factor. Once in the tank, carbon dioxide increases lowering the pH. If you had a tank environment that sucks out the carbon dioxide, like live plants, then the tank pH will rise.

Also IMHO you should measure pH just before lights out.

my .02
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:42 AM   #46
 
I am currently adding CO2 via a DIY2 Liter Bottle. There has not been any notice of ph change yet.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:20 AM   #47
 
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Even the best of the best can have a tank crash.
Steve Weast..*sigh*
Best to not get too confident or complacent.
In my opinion all fish deserve the best you can give them, whether they cost $1.00 or $150.00.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:22 AM   #48
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
If your tap water has a pH above 7.6 then the high range test kit is appropriate.

PH and other tank parameters IMHO are more a function of the tank environment and process then the amount of water changes. Unless you are doing very large daily changes.

that is especially true of pH where carbon dioxide is a determining factor. Once in the tank, carbon dioxide increases lowering the pH. If you had a tank environment that sucks out the carbon dioxide, like live plants, then the tank pH will rise.

Also IMHO you should measure pH just before lights out.

my .02
WOW>>Just noticed this user name! Could this really be you? I haven't seen you around in oh...a decade?
My user name has usually been 'waterfaller1'
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:44 PM   #49
 
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WOW>>Just noticed this user name! Could this really be you? I haven't seen you around in oh...a decade?
My user name has usually been 'waterfaller1'

Yeppers. LOL

SWF and RC I believe.

Worth much more then .02
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:13 PM   #50
 
i'm skipping ahead

i have a 29 gallon, ... last i changed water was ... i had an ammonia spike (didn't realize it) as the PH shifted and it killed half the tank before i did an 80% water change (ammonia test kit still red significant readings)

before that, well months again since a water change, just topping up the tank to handle evaporated water.

i treat my tank like a science experiment, ... i've added greenwater, :), ... it died :( i can't bring it back in the tank :(

i've started regular clipping & pruning of my plants, ... then i dry them, then i cut them up, then i add them to a bucket where they break down, i test the ammonia readings, i stir things up till all the decomposed plant matter is mixed, i add this to the greenwater bucket, i take water from the greenwater bucket & add it to my tank, ... i still can't get greenwater started again :(

it's been, ... 3 or 4 months since the ammonia spike.

i've been adding PH up as a source of potassium (potassium is actually really hard to find to dose a tank with)
i've added epsom salts for magnesium

still no water changes
my PH was beyond the limits of what my PH test kit allows, ...it's slowly dropping, the plants are slowly sucking back the potassium from the PH up,

i've got algae all over (various types)

i'm doing what everyone else would keel over from a heart attack from

no cleaning going on in the tank, ... an HOB filter, that i have taken to cleaning into the same water that is breaking down the removed plant clippings.

it's currently a tank based solely on bacterial activity.

wait, my calcium levels are too high, ... i'm removing snail shells so they stop dissolving into the water column (will also help lower the PH, over a very long stretch of time)

in time, i'll see about getting daphnia/moina/rotifers (something) in there for live food, as well as blackworms (more live food, more activity in the substrate)

there's nothing i'm doing that agrees with current practice
there is no chemical filtration, strickly bacterial

what comes out, goes back in, ... mostly because i realized at one point, pruning plants is removing nutrients, which is not good when things are already out of balance.

so i'm going to side with the OP, what we're doing now, ... isn't needed, and we're doing it anyway, because someone else has said, and we don't really understand what's going on, but we're doing what we're told because it's what everyone else does.

i've got 1 tank, 2 buckets, so that when things do get added to the tank, they're safe again.

and also found, ... the water from the decomposed bucket (for lack of a better term) has the same high PH as the tank, ... next round i'm thinking of adding some peat moss to the mix to balance the PH going through the system.
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