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Companions and nitrogen in a small tank

2K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  rpadgett37 
#1 ·
I've posted this in the Betta forum as well.

Revisiting this question, I am looking for something not only compatible with a Betta, but also not feel cramped in a small tank (8.5" D x 14" L x 7-8" H from substrate to water surface), and adds sufficient nitrogen to the ecosystem to help satisfy the plants needs for ammonium.

On a little more of advanced note, I am concerned the stocking level with the planting I am doing will be insufficient at providing enough ammonium, and perhaps CO2, for the plants (only a single betta planned). I would prefer not to CO2 inject the tank if I can help it due to it's size and the difficulty of keeping the injection timed with the lighting cycle (5 on, 4 off, 5 on). I am hoping Excel will fill in the gaps if needed. I would also prefer not to dose nitrogen if I can help it.

So searching for a stocking solution. Open to suggestions.
 
#2 ·
Plants



I had a nice planted 5 gallon betta tank with moss, dwarf water lettuce, dwarf sag and Anubis. Looked wonderful. The betta was sufficient enough to make the plants thrive. I also added in some Seachem Flourish which does a long way. It's cheap and you wont use too much of it. I did not use Excel, C02 OR root tabs in this tank.

If you have the right lighting and use Flourish, the plants will do great. What's H substrate?

I have never and do not plan on using C02 and my plants grow so fast I can't keep up with them. Root tabs come in a long way to help with that and when ever I have needed C02, Seachem's Excel has been plenty. The plants will use C02 when there is light and there will be a build up of it during the dark hours. When I was doing Excel, I'd use it 2 times a week.

Why the weird lighting cycle? I've never seen anything like that. My planted tanks will receive 6 hours of light max per day. The one at work receives 7 because it's at work and we want to see the fishies longer hahah. You want to create a good sense of day and night for both the plants and fish. The more like their natural environment, the better.

I think it's very important to have longer cycles (6-8[max] on and 16 off). Before you even do Excel, I recommend doing it without and see how the plants react. Once you get the lighting and fertilizer mixture right, then I would recommend to start doing that (if needed).

I would look into RootMedic capsule pluss which I use for all my rooted plants. That, by itself, will make your plants go nuts! You'll find them on sale for really cheap on some forum sites.

What kind of look are you going for?
What are your water parameters?
What is your lighting situation? Kelvin rating? Wattage?
Substrate?

I'd need to know those variables before suggesting any plants.
 
#3 ·
What's H substrate?
Ooops. A happy finger typo.

The plants will use C02 when there is light and there will be a build up of it during the dark hours. When I was doing Excel, I'd use it 2 times a week.
Yes. That's right. Slipped my mind.

Why the weird lighting cycle?
It's a method of managing CO2, keeping the PH more consistent, and controlling algae. The idea is that when Photosynthesis reaches it's max in the early afternoon where CO2 is at it's lowest, the afternoon no lighting simulates a cloudy afternoon. Slows photosynthesis allowing CO2 to build up again. Then another session by the plants in the second lights on period. There's a little more to it than that like max efficiency at absorbing nutrients from the water. It is a method suggested by Diane Walstad in her book. My plants thrive in this lighting scheme, my PH remains more consistent and I have no algae issues at all.

Before you even do Excel, I recommend doing it without and see how the plants react. Once you get the lighting and fertilizer mixture right, then I would recommend to start doing that (if needed).
I agree. A good plan.

I would look into RootMedic capsule pluss which I use for all my rooted plants. That, by itself, will make your plants go nuts! You'll find them on sale for really cheap on some forum sites.
I am planning to use root tabs. I will look into this brand.

What kind of look are you going for?
What are your water parameters?
What is your lighting situation? Kelvin rating? Wattage?
Substrate?
More on my set up. Am using Flourite Black with a little soil mixed in (don't have time to fully prep the soil for a full soil bed) and root tabs. I use RO water mineralized with SC Equilibrium. From experience with the water in my other two tanks, I will need to dose Fe, K and trace minerals.

Water parameters are PH 6.9, dH 6-7, dK 4-5. Temp 80 F.

The lighting comes from a 12 inch Fugray Plant Light, 8.9 watts, 7000k, 650nm for the red lighting. Gets a little hot so I Velcro it to the bookshelf above. 3" clearance from water surface (no heating issues). If need be, as I hang the light, I can upgrade to the next size for 11.8 watts. I am inclined to think that is too much.

I'd say the look I am going for is well planted and lush. Have already selected the plants which will be: Water Sprite (planted), Wisteria (planted), Myriophyllum mattogrosense, Rotala Colorata and Rotundifollia, some type of Hygrophilia, two crypt varieties and floating frogbit. Temp may be a little on the high end for the stems, but a friend I get plants told me they would likely be OK.
 
#8 ·
That's awesome that you LFS has RO water! I wish mine did. That's really not a bad price.

Btw, it seems you're concerned with the nitrogen being introduced. I have this spread sheet of a few fertz that shows the amount of Nitrogen in there. It could help you in that respect: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0At_8CV4ftW-udG1iYW1ud2xTTldOVk1KNE9VTXFUR2c&usp=drive_web#gid=0

I guess it is always a matter of see what happens and react to it in this case. Chasing that perfect balance.

Flint, good find. I've never even thought about that!
Here is the specifications sheet for this fertilizer:
http://www.scotts.com/smg/products/osmocote/PDF/Osmocote%20-%20O%20_%20I%20Product%20Page.pdf
AND
http://www.scotts.com/smg/products/osmocote/PDF/Osmocote%20-%20F%20_%20V%20Product%20Page.pdf

here is their website: Various products of Osmocote Controlled Release Fertilizer - Fertilizers - Fertilizer supply companies - Wholesale Nurseries Suppliers - plant nutrition

It seems they have some time release products, which is interesting.
 
#11 ·
Great spread sheet. About how long does it take for a gelatin capsule to dissolve? And do they have a radius they would fertilize or should there be one per rooted plant? It seems like there would be a rapid release once the capsule dissolves. Would that be harmful in the form of an overdose? Forgive the questions, doing fertilization this way is completely new to me.
 
#12 ·
I'm glad you find it useful :)

I don't know how long they take to dissolve but I have found some dissolved capsules coming out of the substrate when I didn't bury them deep enough.

Personally, I do one tab per rooted plant if it's a large plant. For plants like dwarf sag that bunch up, I put one with a radius of about 4-5 inches away from each other. I've noticed the roots will seek the minerals (this is when I've pulled some of those plants out). The dwarf sag was so aggressive it worked it's way towards the a sword plant and started to steal the swords minerals.

For overdosing: A lot of these fertilizers that are in capsules are also time release, like the one Flint recommended. As for those that aren't time release, I'm not sure. I've used the Root Medic capsules pluss (I don't know if they were time release or not [Also, I think Root Medic might have gone out of business because I can't find their site anymore]) before and I used them as described and I did not have any problem...just too many plants that grew too fast hahah.
 
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