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the beaslbob build

This is a discussion on the beaslbob build within the Advanced Freshwater Discussion forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by beaslbob While carbonic acid is not the only factor in pH, your theory on night time pH is just plain wrong. ...

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Old 11-09-2013, 03:31 PM   #41
BWG
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
While carbonic acid is not the only factor in pH, your theory on night time pH is just plain wrong. CO2 is highest at night and the pH drops at night. Higher co2 less pH.

IME pH is highest just before lights out which is why I recommend measuring pH at that time. The nightly pH drop is mitigated with sufficient kH.
Yeah apologies. What I had meant by night was right before lights out.I worded that awkwardly, but the point I was trying to make is that you can't base CO2 concentration solely on pH.

Would you like a free tip from me? I know it probably is worthless to you, but I'll give it anyway. Want to prove your method is legit? Start from the beginning. Record your tapwater parameters and regularly record your tank parameters. Show that the fish and plants are healthy, show GH isn't skyrocketing from no water changes ever, etc, etc.

No one will take the 'beaslbob method' seriously without those things. All you have shown is a build from nearly 7 years ago and parameters from then as well. What does that chart show? That stocking slowly and having plants makes cycling painless. That's not the 'beaslbob method' that newbie fishkeeping 101. They don't name an award for the millionth person to figure something out. It's like math when everyone was back in school and they made you show your work. If you want to prove your method is legit and works over time then show it. Until then all you've proven is you know as much about cycling and fishkeeping as all but the greenest person on this forum.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:29 PM   #42
 
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Start from the beginning. Record your tapwater parameters and regularly record your tank parameters. Show that the fish and plants are healthy, show GH isn't skyrocketing from no water changes ever, etc, etc.
.
Which is pretty much what I've been gently trying to pull from the very first question that led to this thread...and gave up on after it was clear there was no such data. And may never be.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:32 PM   #43
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Which is pretty much what I've been gently trying to pull from the very first question that led to this thread...and gave up on after it was clear there was no such data. And may never be.
I know, but subtle didn't seem to be working for you ;)
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:36 PM   #44
 
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Well sometimes I get fish(or inverts) to see what interesting decorating or destruction they can do with my plants.
I need to send you a box of Goldfish, they'll take care of your plant problem.

R
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:49 PM   #45
 
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I know, but subtle didn't seem to be working for you ;)
But I wanted more then numbers. I wanted EVERYTHING to put all pieces of the puzzle together. And blaring with a loud horn your intentions tends not to yield such results.. but here nothing aside from a magical wand would give me what I was asking for.
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I need to send you a box of Goldfish, they'll take care of your plant problem.

R
Should see what my blue male crayfish did! Extremely talented interior decorator. There is a video floating about on TFK of it . But one day I would love to play with goldies again and remember why my mom loved them so much.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:32 AM   #46
 
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I need to send you a box of Goldfish, they'll take care of your plant problem.

R

I those cases some kind of refugium would be appropriate. Just like the marine systems where most fish do eat the algaes.

FWIW my two goldfish (comets) leave the plants alone in my 55g.

.02
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:21 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by rickey View Post
Nitrate transport: a key step in nitrate assimilation
Fran¸coise Daniel-Vedele∗, Sophie Filleur and Michel Caboche


"Nitrate is the major source of nitrogen for the vast majority
of plants. It is first reduced to nitrite by nitrate reductase
(NR), nitrite being further reduced into ammonium by
nitrite reductase (NiR). Nitrate assimilation has been the
matter of many studies and has been reviewed by Hoff et
al. [1], Crawford [2] and more recently by Daniel-Vedele
and Caboche [3] and Campbell [4]. Of particular interest,
is the study of the post-transcriptional control of nitrate
reductase activity."

R

Interesting.

Is this internal to the plants? Could explain why plants use more energy to consume nitrates then when consuming ammonia.

thanks.
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #48
 
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You guys and your plants.....

Are you a "plant" for planting that?

not even worth .01
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:29 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by BWG View Post
Yeah apologies. What I had meant by night was right before lights out.I worded that awkwardly, but the point I was trying to make is that you can't base CO2 concentration solely on pH.

Would you like a free tip from me? I know it probably is worthless to you, but I'll give it anyway. Want to prove your method is legit? Start from the beginning. Record your tapwater parameters and regularly record your tank parameters. Show that the fish and plants are healthy, show GH isn't skyrocketing from no water changes ever, etc, etc.

No one will take the 'beaslbob method' seriously without those things. All you have shown is a build from nearly 7 years ago and parameters from then as well. What does that chart show? That stocking slowly and having plants makes cycling painless. That's not the 'beaslbob method' that newbie fishkeeping 101. They don't name an award for the millionth person to figure something out. It's like math when everyone was back in school and they made you show your work. If you want to prove your method is legit and works over time then show it. Until then all you've proven is you know as much about cycling and fishkeeping as all but the greenest person on this forum.

I finally started recording parameters and am reporting what I found.

One problem is that at first I did no measurements at all. Test kits even such as they are have come a long way since 1980. And I have the same results in many cities with various water supplies.

Of course that reflects the basic methods I posted at first.

test kits are not needed.

any potable tap water is sufficient.


I was surprised about the high pH for instance. but that last think I would do is make adjustments in a tank that has had a heavy bioload for the last 7 years. Just let the pH be high.

still just my .02
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:18 PM   #50
 
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Interesting.

Is this internal to the plants? Could explain why plants use more energy to consume nitrates then when consuming ammonia.

thanks.
Yes, internal to the plant,
R
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