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the beaslbob build

This is a discussion on the beaslbob build within the Advanced Freshwater Discussion forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> ya, i'm not at a point to consider really looking into cyano, ... i would only consider it if i needed to for nitrates, ...

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Old 11-03-2013, 03:20 PM   #21
 
ya, i'm not at a point to consider really looking into cyano, ... i would only consider it if i needed to for nitrates, ... so for now it's just a curiosity, one of the many things i've come across, ... and i've seen what some tanks are like where it gets out of hand, ... not worth it in my books :(
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #22
 
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i've got algae all over in my tank, ... i am looking for different algae, but dono what i could find that would suit my purposes, ...

there is the typical algae types, long and stringy, short and bushy, or forming fluffy clumps, shades of green or black (cyano aside),

actually cyano has me curious about nitrates as well, i came across something (one thing only actually) that mentioned cyanobacteria can increase nitrates directly from N2, ... most cyanobacterias are toxic, but i think some are safe. a random thought for dealing with planted tanks that have a nitrogen deficiency.

but with other algae types, than the typical ones that affect most peoples freshwater tanks, i'm sure some have some rather unique appearances and may be rather nice to have in a tank. provided they don't get out of hand.
Increase is the incorrect word. Cyano can use nitrogen gas for nitrogen vrs the ammonia/nitrates of most plants. (Yea yea I know it's a bacteria but still it has "plant life".) Just as soybeans fix nitrogen in farmer's fields and why they rotate crops.


There is some organic equation where 16 nitrogens are used for every phosphate (among other things) to produce plant stuff. The theory is that nitrates become scarce and cyano steps up and gets its nitrogen from the gas. Further starving plant life of phosphates. So the tank can rapidily becomes cyano dominated vrs plant dominated.

So after a few months of operation, nitrates drops down and here comes the cyano.

What I do is simply kill the lights and stop adding food. So the cyano dies off returning ammonia/nitrates to the system and plants. Then resume with less lighting and feeding and adjust so the plants thrive but not the cyano.

That rebalances the system in favor of the plants.


my .02
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:44 PM   #23
 
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do you have any info on you current tank(s) that are from within this decade?
Also I'm curious about your claim to using the Walstad method.. Can you elaborate what part of her method are you using ?
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:45 PM   #24
 
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do you have any info on you current tank(s) that are from within this decade?
Also I'm curious about your claim to using the Walstad method.. Can you elaborate what part of her method are you using ?

just have the 55g since we moved to a new house 3 years ago. before that 10g leiden, 55g was a mixed reet, 30 mixed reef, betta bowl, 20g long leiden.

As to the waltstad, I do not use co2, do use organics (the peat moss but not the potting soil) limited water changes. heavily planted, lower lights. Not exactly the same but close.

my.02
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:26 PM   #25
 
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just have the 55g since we moved to a new house 3 years ago. before that 10g leiden, 55g was a mixed reet, 30 mixed reef, betta bowl, 20g long leiden.

As to the waltstad, I do not use co2, do use organics (the peat moss but not the potting soil) limited water changes. heavily planted, lower lights. Not exactly the same but close.

my.02
So not really her method ..so very misleading when you claim the use of Diana's method. Very confusing when you so quickly recommend your method to newbies when claiming it's a part of a valid documented many times over method.. That actually is fine with the filters(actually her fav tank she uses my fav filter the eheim canister). And is a fan of prime if you don't have well water..which she does. And with fish recommends a powerhead if not a filter for circulation. Plus does water changes.. her method if far from yours.

BTW..did I miss something? whatever happened to your tests on your tank?
"I can't access my test results from work so will post that and vid of a tank from home tonight." Or are you just going on these old tanks and don't even use your own method anymore?
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:58 AM   #26
 
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So not really her method ..so very misleading when you claim the use of Diana's method. Very confusing when you so quickly recommend your method to newbies when claiming it's a part of a valid documented many times over method.. That actually is fine with the filters(actually her fav tank she uses my fav filter the eheim canister). And is a fan of prime if you don't have well water..which she does. And with fish recommends a powerhead if not a filter for circulation. Plus does water changes.. her method if far from yours.

BTW..did I miss something? whatever happened to your tests on your tank?
"I can't access my test results from work so will post that and vid of a tank from home tonight." Or are you just going on these old tanks and don't even use your own method anymore?

I didn't claim to be 100% Walstad. But she does recommend soil and lotsa plants. and no co2 for instance.

If the overridding thing is the plants then the rest are not relevant to maintaining an healthy tank for the plants and fish.

I can't tell at work here as the links are just x's. Did I not post parameters during a cycle on page 2?

my .02
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:11 AM   #27
 
i have yet to get the book, on the list of things to get
from what i understand isn't it the organic topsoil as the key ingredient for the substrate, ... that's about the same as peat, although one is a generic mix from whatever dirt plot it was shoveled from, and one is a specific farmed & dried plant mix (or something like that, you get the idea)

simular enough in my books, ... yet still different enough
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:16 PM   #28
 
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i have yet to get the book, on the list of things to get
from what i understand isn't it the organic topsoil as the key ingredient for the substrate, ... that's about the same as peat, although one is a generic mix from whatever dirt plot it was shoveled from, and one is a specific farmed & dried plant mix (or something like that, you get the idea)

simular enough in my books, ... yet still different enough
He recommends something far different. Her book actually is very good for a planted low maintenance tank. His method is no more like her method then any of my tanks. I personally would highly recommend her method however.


And bealsbob, you posted parameters for a random tank from a decade ago.
You are however right, your method does pop up on google..by all the forums you've been banned from and discussions of how you never post recent pictures and aggressively push this method like it's some valid proven method onto newbies on all forums.
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #29
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I'm not sure about the whole no water change thing. i think it may work for some, and crash for others.

I set up a ten gallon for my uncle back in may 2012. I used some kind of garden soil capped with a sand substrate....It was the first and last time I ever set up a soil based tank, can't say I'm a fan...

I didn't have time to wait for the tank to establish, so I planted the tank with a mixture of hair grass, rotalas and Charale and threw in 6 endler frys and one betta (which i hoped will keep the population in check... )

Half a year later I come back home to visit and find that my uncle's family switched off the light, heater and filter in favor of saving electricity. They did however place the tank near a well lit window. I also came home to an overfed betta who lazily watched delicious fry dance past him(grandmas and their over doting tendencies...), about 40- 100 guppies (couldn't count them all). And ofcourse they didn't do a single water change like I instructed...

What was note worthy was the level of over grown greeness in that tank. I couldn't see 3 in past the front glass... ditto if I'm looking in from the side.

For the sake of my own sanity, I did a large water change and trimmed some plants... it's been 8 months since then, and I have no idea what kind of hideous self evolving monster the tank has grown into....

needless to say, sometimes these things work. I just wouldn't recommend it to others because there is that chance of it failing when you can't exactly explain why it is scientific. O_O I would whip my uncle's family into proper tank care if I had the authority...

honestly, in the end.. I just don't want to be responsible for someone else's tank crash.....



EDIT:


Here are the pics of said tank AFTER I did a water change and trim. I was so horrified I didn't even think to take a photo of the "before" and immediate set off to perform water change and trim... lol








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Last edited by ao; 11-07-2013 at 02:53 PM..
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:56 PM   #30
 
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He recommends something far different. Her book actually is very good for a planted low maintenance tank. His method is no more like her method then any of my tanks. I personally would highly recommend her method however.


And bealsbob, you posted parameters for a random tank from a decade ago.
You are however right, your method does pop up on google..by all the forums you've been banned from and discussions of how you never post recent pictures and aggressively push this method like it's some valid proven method onto newbies on all forums.

That's because it is a valid and proven method that was around long before all the filters and chemicals we use today.

And I have had several newbies that "saved" that first highly stressed cycle fish by these methods. Not in days but in hours.

my .02
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