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the beaslbob build

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Old 02-15-2014, 08:19 AM   #181
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No link?
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:29 AM   #182
Originally Posted by jaysee View Post
No link?

Didn't want to "advertise" another board.

I know you believe a newbie would post that so no need for a link.
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:41 AM   #183
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Hahahaha so after ALL this time you come up with "something" saltwater, when 99% of this thread is freshwater. Just as unsatisfying as everything else you offer up as proof. Par for the course I guess.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:17 AM   #184

believe it or not, you are inspiring :)

going to keep in mind everything you have mentioned, ... not just to say "hey,there's a nifty idea, but it doesn't jive with what i'm doing", ... i don't know what i'm doing, i don't have a set "method" what i have is an idea to say "it needs more research", and i don't even know what direction to take that research.

soil, .. to have lots of nutrients, and to retain those nutrients in the soil, current thought are a high CEC mineral (yet i know this will saturate then there is the water column, and that will then fill with nutrients)

i have thought "what could i put in there to soak up those nutrients, ... "life" , plants, ... rooted vascular plants, floating plants, algae, phytoplankton (i don't know as much about bacterioplankton, but another one of those ideas.

and once those things have at least 'some' of the nutrients, well adding zooplankton and critters to eat, and they eat, and they poop, and it falls to the bottom, ... and add worms and snails to help process things.

this just follows the cycle of life.

and it ignores something that wasn't really something i was paying attention to till it was brought up in this thread, ... the "life" i have in the tank to soak up those nutrients, ... well they absorbed "some", so that means there's lots left.

and the other one brought up, ... hormones, & other organic chemicals our critters are releasing due to basic body functions.

and this is difficult to consider how to handle at all.

especially in light of the discus comment about massive daily water changes having an apparent improvement in discus health.

i can have guesses, but that's a steep curve that fish are releasing that much so fast, ... sure, things happen in nature to deal with this, ... but that's ... well i don't think there is an ecosystem on the planet that has things as densely populated as our tanks, ... just going through the food-chain, that's a lot of demand on phytoplankton.

and the bacteria that is releasing the nutrients into the water column, ... the only way i can think to limit them is to reduce the substrate , or use larger ... course sand or find gravel instead of fine sand, ... using 1-2" instead of 3"

that's only theory, nothing to back up if it's going to do anything or not.
in the event it does reduce what goes into the water column, ... would it limit phytoplankton from being able to keep up with the demand, or would things start to run out of food till the fish could not survive.

and this goes to point out that i still have a hard time with even where to begin on hormones and other such excretions that are given off by critters in the tank.

the discus thing is a pretty solid argument and massively difficult to consider how to solve that.

Mikaila, good to know that TDS isn't directly related to pH, ... well not good for my personal intents, ... but good to know so i'm not going down a path that isn't helping me out.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:29 AM   #185
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I don't think the owners of TFK will have a problem with this link, as they own both sites; First saltwater tank - Aquarium Forum

With a bit of backtracking there's this; limestone rock : Coral, Rock and Sand Hitchhikers - Page 4

As well as this; HAIL beaslbob..... [Archive] - Reef Central Online Community Archives

Different isn't always bad, or good. I like to refer to the first person whoever they may be that tried feeding beefheart. A cow's heart? Discus? When would fish in the Amazon happen across a cow's heart? Over time beefheart is proven to be a very useful food, but there is the proof behind it. The same applies to newly hatched artemia, another proven part of aquatics.

If you're doing something outside of what is considered standard procedures you do need more lengthy documentation with repeatable results. I would be gearing up for this if I were in your situation.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:39 AM   #186
having listened and taken part in marine concerns where coral is concerned ...

macro algae won't help, ... well wait, it will 'help' but when nutrient levels are high enough to upset the coral/zooxanthella algae symbiotic nature, ... one dies off then the other, ... "help" can mean you've prolonged the inevitable. but it's still going to happen

nutrient levels around coral is a much larger issue.

to solve this is then using every effort to ensure any poop is removed ASAP. water flow to prevent any detritus from accumulating anywhere in the tank so it can be removed (finding out you still have areas it's accumulating).

finding that nutrient levels are still higher than desired, algae scrubbers help but that now means you can have more coral types, ... and the most sensitive coral types are still off-bounds because you still can't get the nutrient levels low enough.

and even at this level any kind of algae isn't going to survive because there simply isn't enough nutrients present to keep the algae alive, and you're still above the threshold of the most sensitive coral.

macroalgae doesn't cut it.

DSB, make that a remote DSB so it can be replaced when it's full
algae scrubbers
Bare Bottom tanks (no substrate)
water flow, ...
GFO reactor (i forget the other name)
... and likely many more things that are done to keep nutrients down, ... in particular phosphates

and they still can't get them low enough for the more sensitive corals.

macroalgae isn't going to cut it
any organic death is releasing nutrients, and at this point (for most coral, forget the more sensitive ones) levels are already low enough algae has a hard time surviving

what is going on in the wild to allow for this to be maintained, ... it's beyond our knowledge, if it was within our knowledge reefs all over the world wouldn't be dying.

sure macro-algae is fine if you have a marine tank i guess, ... but it's not going to cut it if you add coral
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:39 AM   #187
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Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
Didn't want to "advertise" another board.

I know you believe a newbie would post that so no need for a link.

Hahahaha that was said 10 YEARS AGO even older than the pics you post!
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:53 AM   #188
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Originally Posted by Flear View Post
ammonia, i'm guessing is 0.2-0.3 - no, there is no such thing as a true zero, as that would mean your nitrogen cycling bacteria has crashed due to starvation.
0.2/0.3ppm ammonia is harmful (not deadly) to your livestock. Most keepers would want to KNOW, not just guess.

While there may be no such thing as 0.000ppm ammonia, there is such a thing as unreadable (0.0ppm) ammonia which indicates that the nitrifying bacteria is doing it's job and the colony has grown to a size sufficient to oxidize any but trace amounts of ammonia. This is the condition called "cycled." It's what all keepers should strive for.

Not having the wherewithal to provide a more accurate assessment of your parameters, your input into this thread is apocryphal at best.
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:44 PM   #189
This post was moved from the beginner section. Please keep your posts as requested by the Mod Team in the Advanced area. Thank you.

Looks lie you are an interesting type guy.

FWIW I use a natural/Leiden planted method which was dubbed the beaslbob build on another forum.

in that I use peat moss capped with play sand capped with pro choice select which is a baked clay.

I plant the plants then fill the aquarium with water.

I alos use 4' 2 tube utility fixtures over my 55g. They cost like $11 or so at home depot.

then and importantly i let the tank set for a week.

then add 1 fish and not add food for a week.

if I added a live bearer it was a male and I now add two females. other fish I add 5 more.

I then start very light feedings like 1 flake per day.

with live bearers you have a tank full of fish in 6 months and a more or les stable population that lasts for years and years.

no filter, no water changes, no chemicals, just replace evaprotive water with untreated tap.

So sound like some of what you are trying to do is similiar.

the potting soil should work but you may have to kill the lights at first so the cloudy water clears up and algae dies off.

the key to all that is to establish a balanced stable tank that more or less takes care of itself.

Which anyone who has had bonsai should be able to do easily.

best tank ever

my .02

Last edited by SeaHorse; 04-19-2014 at 02:20 PM..
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